Sunday, September 30, 2012

9/30/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Russ and Chris and made it down early enough to see the full moon party still going on.  The moon also looked really cool reflecting off the ocean making it look like there was a path leading all the way to it.  We headed out right around ho chi men trail and had a pretty fun session.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range and pretty glassy conditions.  The rising tide definitely messed with the conditions and decided to get out early since I had to get ready for Markus's birthday.



Image taken from Surfline photo archive but is from the same day.

Friday, September 28, 2012

9/28/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning with Russ shortly after 6am.  Waves were better today with the size in the waist to chest high range.  It was a bit glassier as well with some nice sweeping lefts rolling through some with decent sized barrels.  The tide kind of killed it though with it going high to a 5.4 ft around 9am.  No seaweed monsters on the inside today which is surprising since it wasn't on the beach either so it just seemed to have disappeared.  The was also long waits between sets but at least a bunch of locals out so that was cool.  Tp buoy showing a quick little pulse this morning with with estimated height at 3.0-3.8ft, 204-214 degrees, 17 seconds and combined height at 4ft.   Overall a fun day with plenty of good ones to go around.




Thursday, September 27, 2012

9/27/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning solo at 6am and it was still pitch dark out when I got there.    Conditions were decent again today with waist to chest high that were ever changing with the rapidly rising tide.  There was a lot of sea weed again this morning on the inside and you could get completely tangled if you rode the wave too far in.  Pretty short rides for the most part but a few fun ones out there as well.  Surfed main peak for most of the morning and saw Paul out in the water as well.  As the tide filled in it moved more north and ended up near the trail again.   Tidal swings a little unusual with 6 hours swings as we must be approaching a full moon again here soon.  High tide right around the time I left at 8:20 at 5ft with a moderate surge from 0ft.  Winds shifted around quite a bit as well and was first offshore at first and then started blowing on and off out of the NW.  Buoy reporting 2.5-3.2 with a mix of swell from 213-242(primary), 13.5 secs, at 3.4ft combined.


Wednesday, September 26, 2012

9/26/12 - Blacks

Headed down for a solo mission this morning and was out around 6:15.  Waves were pretty fun in the waist to chest high range with light SE offshore winds in the morning with a lot less crowded than yesterday.  Still a bit on the inconsistent side but definitely a few ones.  Stayed on north peak for the majority of the time with Danny joining shortly after getting out.  With the tide coming up the conditions changed as usual and the wind started blowing out of the north.  Buoy showing 2.7-3.4ft, 224-262 degrees, 14 second intervals, combined height at 3.5ft.  Conditions went from good to nothing and then started getting good again.  




Tuesday, September 25, 2012

9/25/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded parking lot this morning at 6:15am and look like the hype swell has arrived along with everyone in the county.  Waves were decent size at head high or so but the direction was too west (good call B) from 245-258 with heights showing 3.0-3.7ft at 15 seconds, combined at 3.4ft and building.   Good to note for future sessions is that looking at Google Earth Blacks Beach is face almost exactly 270 degrees (photo attached).  Mostly close out funky double ups with some occasional makeable sections if you were lucky.  Paddled out at the hoi chi trail and stayed there for the duration of the stay.  Waves were breaking all the way down in front of Farms Rd and you could see heads all the way down.  Tide was a little swamped out at peaked at a 4.5ft at 7:20 dropping to 2ft.  Hopefully we get a bit more angle on it for tomorrow.




Sunday, September 23, 2012

9/23/12 - Blacks

Went down this Sunday morning at 6:00am for some groveling in really small surf.  Waves were knee to barley waist but the angle was a not quite right at 207-213 degrees, at 1.3-1.7ft, 13 secs.  Also another foot of a NW 264 degrees.  Met up with Russ and Tom after getting out. Water was warm but not much going on out there.  Dropping tide also not helping much either.


Friday, September 21, 2012

9/21/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning with full crew Russ, Brendan and Barrett and Paul joining the party later.  Waves were fun in the waist to chest high range and a bit inconsistent at first with it getting better closer to 8:30 or so.  We all paddled out north of the ho chi men and had our own private peak for some time before a few heads joined us about a half an hour later. There was a bit of a wait for the waves today but the ones that did break best were the outside and going mainly going right.  Tide was low at 6:40am with only medium surge of 3ft.  TP buoy showing 2-2.5ft, with a combined sea height of 4ft.  The south swell was diminishing from 205 degrees with most of what we were riding today was the shorter period stuff from the 287 mark as the chart below shows. Overall another really fun day.








Thursday, September 20, 2012

9/20/12 - Blacks

Headed down solo this morning for dawn patrol and walked down from the GP.  Today was a lot cleaner than last night with the waves in the waist to chest high range.  It was still a bit sectiony but there was definitely the occasional fun one that would line up nicely.  The rising tide around 6am  also seemed to help push the sets as well with almost a 4ft swing.   Stayed north in front of the ho chi trail and saw a few familiar faces out there as well including Heath.  Water was a little chilly and the fog started rolling in later in the session.  Tp buoy showing 2.5-3.1ft, 4.5ft combined with primary swell from 197 @ 15secs but also a little short period wind swell from 284 degrees @ 8.3 secs.


9/19/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 5pm today for a little afternoon sessions and headed down from the GP.  Waves were around chest high for the sets but a little peaky and disorganized.  Tide was going low at around 6:45pm so that was making it a little wishy washy as well.  Surfed mainly the north side to avoid the hoards of people out.  Buoy was showing 3.0-3.8ft with a mostly south swell at 15secs from 191-202degrees.  Combined sea height at 3.8ft.  Stayed out until sun down to try to get a few uncrowded ones down on the main peak and then walked up in the dark.


Monday, September 17, 2012

9/16/12 - Blacks

Pulled into the glider port around 1pm today for an afternoon solo session.  The parking lot was packed as all the nudies were out in full force with hot summerish sun.  Winds were a light onshore and tide was dropping to even at 4pm.  Not a lot of size today but with the new stick there were plenty of ridable waves.  Waves were mostly knee to waist with the occasional chest high coming through later. The water was really warm and clear today and you could see to the bottom when you were surfing.  With the water being so clear it actually kind of made it hard to judge and was a little distracting to see the shadow on the sea floor.  Caught a bunch of waves near north peak with hardly anyone out at first.  Probably because of the football games today as well as the Chargers starting at 1pm.  Buoy showing 2.5-3.1ft, 16 seconds, from 187-200 degrees.


9/17/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning at the usual time before work and walked down the Farms Rd way for a change.  Waves we pretty small with most of them in the knee to occasional waist high sets.  Conditions were nice with no wind and warm and clear water.  Once Paul showed up it look like it was going to start getting better for about thirty minutes with the tidal push but one that came up it was over.  The rights were better with some fast make able corners around mini barreling shape.  TP buoy showing 1.7-2.2ft, 182 degrees, 9.3secs , and 3.4ft combined.  Looks like most of the steep angle south is just going right by San Diego.  High tide a 6ft at 10am with a swing of 5.5 ft.



Sunday, September 16, 2012

9/15/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning at around 7am and met up with Heath for the walk down.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range but pretty inconsistant with soft shoulders and mushy sections.  A few of the them formed nicely but those were pretty far and few between.  Stayed N of ho chi with the currents sweeping back and forth.  Russ and Paul joined the session a little bit later as well.   Tide was rising about five feet so did it's usual thing of looking like it would get better then going into a lull again.   The heat was scorching and the walk up was really warm.

Friday, September 14, 2012

9/14/12- Blacks

Arrived at the GP shortly before 6 and descended into the think fog to look for some waves.  The lineup was barely visible from the shore on the paddle out and headed out in front of the ho chi men trail.  Waves were pretty inconsistent and mostly in the waist high range with soft shoulders with the occasional one lining up for a good ride.   The water temperature dropped quite a bit and wished I had worn the full suit since I not only was chilly but had a bad case of the gremlins which does NOT make for a good combination.  Must have been the spicy food from last night trying to escape.  Tide was going high to 5ft at 9am from 0ft and winds were slightly offshore at first but completely dying off later when the fog started burning off.  Buoy showing 2.2-2.7ft, 189d, 16secs, 3.6ft combined.  


9/11/12 - Blacks

Not much to talk about here as the waves were crap.  Knee high and blown out but hey the water was water.  Ended up just going to Peats instead.

Monday, September 10, 2012

9/10/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning at 6am with Russ not expecting much but the waves were actually even better today and nobody out!  Waves were mostly in the waist to chest high range with glassy conditions and  longer rides with top to bottom racy lines.  Second day on the sub scorcher and felt like I was stating to getting a better feel for the board today and am pretty convinced now that a purchase could happen here in the near future.  We paddled out again just north of the ho chi men trail and nobody in site except way down on south peak for the duration of the session.  The swell was really consistent with short period sets and was able to time a few where I caught maybe 4 waves in a row without stopping the paddle and actually had to let some go by just because I was exhausted.  Water was also warm and was a little too hot in the new suit.  Tide was just peaking  at 7:30am at a 3.6 ft and a light surge.  TP buoy only showing a 1.2-1.5ft, 7.7secs, 290 degrees, and 3.3 ft.


9/9/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning around 7am with the full lamp shade on the head from the bday party from last night.  Definitely the full surprise session with waves in the waist to chest high range and pretty fun with bowly little sections coming though.  The swell was really consistent with short period intervals and also really clean and uncrowded. Russ and I paddled out north of ho chi men and stayed there for most of the session. Rode the new demo Lost Firewire Sub-Scorcher 5'8" and had a couple really fun ones, but between the hangover and the new board I was a little on tilt.  Over a really fun day with unexpected surf.

Friday, September 7, 2012

9/7/12 - Trestles

Headed up this morning for a morning mission with Tom and arrived at Lowers around 6am.  Waves were super fun in the shoulder high range with glassy conditions and a light offshore wind.  At first the crowd wasn't bad at all and caught a few of the best rights I have had in a while with the rides at around 100 yards.  Couple pros in the water including Kolohe Andino just shredding the spot to pieces.  It great to see how it's really done and feel that every time you surf a place like this it just take your ability up a notch.  After a bit the peak started getting pretty crowded and bit frustrating but over all an epic beginning to the day.  Tide was low at 6:30 at 3ft going only coming up another 1.5 ft.  TP buoy showing 1.8-2.3ft, 197 degrees, 13.7 secs, 2.6ft sea height.


Thursday, September 6, 2012

9/6/12-Blacks

Headed down this morning from the GP not expecting a lot especially since the parking lot was empty.  Waves were really tiny and clean when I first got out but it started getting a little bit better with the tidal push with mostly knee to waist high sets, clean, and fast.  Hardly anyone out but friends with John on south peak and Russ and Paul joining in on the action later.  Thick seaweed on the inside that you would have to pull off after every wave.  Water was definitely chillier with it showing as 60 degrees at Scripps.  Buoy showing 1.9-2.4ft, 195 degrees, 14secs, and 2.9 sea height.  Tide was dead low at a 2.4ft at 6am rising to  4.6ft at 1pm.




Wednesday, September 5, 2012

9/5/12 - Oceanside

Paddled this morning in Oside (Buccaneer Park) and not a whole lot to report.  Waves in the knee to chest high range but were mostly closing out so not that great. Only caught one that was any good before I decided to get out and drive the coast to see if there was any other spot that was better but nothing all the way down to Delmar looked any good so called it an early day.  TP buoy showing 2.1-2.6ft, 14 secs from 200 degrees.  Tide was low on arrival at 2ft going to 5ft.  Water was a lot colder up there as well.  Time for a new wetsuit.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

9/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from the GP with Chris and Josh.  With the full blue moon the must have been a good party because a lot of people were still parting down on the beach.  Waves were chest to head range but a bit cross up, inconsistant and as crowded as I have ever seen it that early in the morning.  A few funs ones to be had still with the rising tide helping it out as well.  TP buoy showing some decent energy at 3.8-4.7ft, 200 degrees, 19 seconds, combined sea height at 4.8 feet.   Water also a bit cooler this morning but after the sun came up it was fine in the short sleeve full.