9/25/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded parking lot this morning at 6:15am and look like the hype swell has arrived along with everyone in the county.  Waves were decent size at head high or so but the direction was too west (good call B) from 245-258 with heights showing 3.0-3.7ft at 15 seconds, combined at 3.4ft and building.   Good to note for future sessions is that looking at Google Earth Blacks Beach is face almost exactly 270 degrees (photo attached).  Mostly close out funky double ups with some occasional makeable sections if you were lucky.  Paddled out at the hoi chi trail and stayed there for the duration of the stay.  Waves were breaking all the way down in front of Farms Rd and you could see heads all the way down.  Tide was a little swamped out at peaked at a 4.5ft at 7:20 dropping to 2ft.  Hopefully we get a bit more angle on it for tomorrow.