Thursday, September 20, 2012

9/20/12 - Blacks

Headed down solo this morning for dawn patrol and walked down from the GP.  Today was a lot cleaner than last night with the waves in the waist to chest high range.  It was still a bit sectiony but there was definitely the occasional fun one that would line up nicely.  The rising tide around 6am  also seemed to help push the sets as well with almost a 4ft swing.   Stayed north in front of the ho chi trail and saw a few familiar faces out there as well including Heath.  Water was a little chilly and the fog started rolling in later in the session.  Tp buoy showing 2.5-3.1ft, 4.5ft combined with primary swell from 197 @ 15secs but also a little short period wind swell from 284 degrees @ 8.3 secs.


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