Tuesday, July 31, 2012

7/31/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from the gliderport on a solo mission.  Waves were tini in the knee to sometimes waist high range but the wind was dead calm and the water was warm and clear so really can't complain.  The shape was almost perfect and if you had a boogie board you could have pulled into the mini one foot barels.  I even tried to lay down and grab one with no success.  Paul joined the session shortly after I made my way to north peak and the other locals left.  After catching a few waves another 6 or so heads paddled out to sit basically right on top of us.  Stayed out another hour until about 8:30am and then decided to call it quits.  Really not much of a surf day but you have to enjoy the summer while it's here.  The tide was coming in and peaking at 9:20am with about a 5ft swing so that helped a bit as well to.   TP buoy showing a combined see height of 2.5ft due to the multiple aligning very small souths at 200-206 degrees at 11-18 seconds.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

7/29/12 - Ocean Beach

Went for a long bike ride to PB which ended up in OB for a beer and burger to celebrate a classic Cali summer day.  Met up with B, and then the fam came to hang out on the beach as well.  Paddled out around 5pm with only shorts and a top (first time of the year) just north of the pier on B's loaner Channel Island board.  Sets looked like they had a lot of potential but they were pretty mushy so had to pump really hard to get the long rides to the the beach.  Femina, Julie and the kids were on shore acting as the official scoring committee with hoots and hollers after a ride all the way the the shore.  A few fun ones up there but the water started to get really cold with the diving sun and had to cut the session short to stop the shaking.

7/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this Sunday morning shortly after 6am not expecting much.  To my surprise however the waves were actually pretty fun.  The overall shape was pretty clean and breaking with power for waist high plus sets.  Takes offs were sectiony most of the time with a shoulder that you would have to beat on the take off.  Tide was slowly rising to 3.6 ft at 8am which I think also help to give it an extra punch. Went out at middle peak and saw only a few of the the regulars.  Conditions proved to be better earlier in the sessions though with the water also cooling down quite a bit as the day went on.  Caught a few fun onces but felt a bit rusty as well with the little bit of surfing lately.  Buoys showing about 3ft of combined energy from the south at 200 degrees but there was also a slight north swell as well since north peak was also breaking, but I didn't see that on the radar. Lots of people started paddling out around 8 am and also lots of people busting airs today as well.  Saw Paul out in the water and he ended up walking up with after the session.

Monday, July 23, 2012

7/23/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 6am this morning and was hoping for it to be a little bit better than it was.  Wind was on it early which put a pretty good bump on the surface.  The waves looked tini when I was walking down but as soon as a bunch of people got out and gave up on it the sets started coming it.  Unfortunately the shape was pretty poor with unpredictable corners and bumpy conditions.  There were a few out there but not a whole lot.  Was hanging with Paul later in the session when the dolphins started getting frisky, jumping out of the water, charging right at me and then going underneath.  Water was warm but the slight wind with gray cold skies made it feel a lot colder.  Tide was a 0.34ft low at 6:23am rising to a 4.78ft at 1pm.  TP buoy showing primary swell at 2.3-2.8ft, 200 degrees at 15.3 seconds.

7/22/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this Sunday hoping for a little more swell in the water but the waves were actually smaller today.  Tide was just coming up but it didn't make much of a difference.  Not too many people out so at least that was nice.  I saw Tom on South peak and then headed over to North Peak to see why it was more crowed over there but it wasn't that much better.  Waves were tini but the form was a little better than yesterday.  Stayed out for only a little over an hour.

7/21/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning and waves were around waist high and crossed up.  Conditions not that great and only stayed out for about an hour.  Not much to talk about but nice warm water.

Sunday, July 8, 2012

7/8/12 - Blacks

Woke up this morning around 5:30am and checked the conditions.  I almost didn't pull after seeing the 7 mph winds from the North but decided to head down anyways to meet Russ and get a little exercise.  The waves were little on the inconsistant side with the best sets rolling though on south peak as was expected with the 210 degree primary swell at roughly 3ft and close to 17 second intervals.   Paddled out into the crowd at first and then got tired of waiting for the set so then went more north for the more consistant shore break.  As I was sitting in the pack waiting for a set one of the guys claimed he saw a shark heading my direction but I didn't think much of it since we all know they are out there.  Then about 30 seconds later I saw what looked like a small 6-8ft shark pass directly underneath me.  I never saw any dolphins surface for air or swimming around so it must of have been a shark...oh well.  Anyways caught really fun waist high lefts on the inside with some nice bowly reforms and got a few nice turns in as well.    Tide was flat around 7am and seemed to worse as it pushed in so decided to get out around 8:30.  On the way back up I recognized Jonah and he offered me a ride up so that is always a nice way to finish your session :)

7/7/12 - Trestles

Headed up to the famous Trestles with Tom at the butt crack of dawn since the south swell was in the water.  We met up with his brother and girl friend and then headed down to the beach.  I think everyone in southern California must of had the exact same idea because it was an absolute zoo of people down there around 6am!  Our first plan of attack was to paddle out at Uppers but it was kind of closing out so we decided to get out and walk down to Lowers since it looked at lot better.  When we arrived at lowers I thought to myself you got to be kidding me because there was a wolf pack of at least 100 guys sitting on the peak.  At first I didn't catch anything until Tom and I split a peak and then I started getting a little more aggressive which was necessary if you didn't want to just sit there.  Since there was about 6 guys on every wave that you took off on you definitely had to make your presence known by giving some kind of audible.  I only ended up catching maybe 8 waves but a few of the rides were around 100-150 yards longs with just amazing chest high rides that were just machine like.  The rights were better with just super fast pump tracks that you knew were not going to close out so you could just take your time and practice any maneuver you like over and over again.  The water was really nice and somehow the crowd stayed civil which was amazing in itself.  The tide was rising as we were there and the waves then started getting better at Uppers as we notice on our walk back to the car.  Tp buoy was showing around 3+ ft at 208 degrees will a long period 16 second interval.  Winds remained calm until about 11am then kicked in.  Over a really fun day despite the hoards.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

7/4/12 - Blacks


Happy July 4th yall!  Made it out this morning at 5:30, for the butt crack of dawn session.  Full moon party carnage down at the beach today with all of the hippies still sitting around the fire which later got ticketed by the park rangers.  Waves looked craptacular when Russ and I were walking down but there ended up being some pretty fun rights coming though.  Had the north peak to ourselves for the first half hour or so until the packs started to come out.  Definitely the day to have the semi-fish board with some rides going pumping to the beach.  Southern winds were blowing pretty hard at around 7 mph but the water was nice and warm.   Tide was super low on arrival with a 1.4ft tide at 4:30am rising to a 4.2 at 11am so the push helped a little as well.  Tp buoy showing 1.4-1.8ft, 186 degrees at 13 secs. Thankfully no further great white sightings :) 


Monday, July 2, 2012

7/2/12 - Blacks

Made it out this morning around 6:30am with Russ.  Skies were gray and gloomy out and the southern eddies were blowing.  Waves didn't look that fun from shore but the rights were working in the mostly waist high range mostly on north peak.  Water was a little chilly with the short sleeve full and the pelicans were out in full force today with one diving right next to me and other cruising in packs over head.  TP buoy showing 1.4-1-7ft from primarily 280 degrees at 7.2 seconds so mostly wind swell today.