Sunday, January 29, 2012

1/29/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to the glider port at 6:40 and walked down to join Russ in the water on North peak.  Waves were much smaller today at waist to chest high sets breaking left and right.  Conditions were clean with a warm light offshore winds.  Breaking top to bottom but shortly after the drop most of the waves fizzled out. Tide was low at about 2ft with very little swing.  TP buoy showing 2 -2.5 ft at 255 degrees W.  Dolphins in the water just cruising and bobbing in the lineup.   Had one just sitting next to us for a while just hanging out.


Friday, January 27, 2012

1/27/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 6:30 this morning and it was big and closed out for the most part with sets coming .  Winds were light offshore and TP buoy showing 5-6ft at 276 degrees west.  Almost called it quits after trying to paddle out on the 6'4" for about 20 minutes and drifting from way north to the lifeguard stand.  Finally got out on the second try but only caught a couple waves before having to head in for work. Ok sesssion.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

1/26/12 - Blacks

Another fine morning down at Blackies today.  Parked up at farms at was out by 6:30.  Was were prety fun with head high to some over head sets coming in on south peak but the sholders were unpredictable and sometimes very short rides.  TP buoy showing 2.7 - 3.4ft at 284 degrees @ 12.9 secs .  Warm Santa Ana winds were blowing gently offshore today at about 5m straight from the east.  There were strange currents again from Middles to South peak but the waves were at least a few feet bigger down there.  Caught a few waves on south peak and then caught one in to run down south to look for Mr Mori.  Surfed on north peak next to the Ho Chi Men train for a while but decided to drift back down south since it was much smaller.  The sun as been peaking up over the cliff right at about 8am so no need for a watch right now .  Only saw a few dolphins in the water today, but lots of people taking photagraphy.  One guys swimming with a cam, two guys on shore and another swimmer cam coming down the trail on my way back up.  Must be some hype since Femina mentioned there was  high surf advisory on the news.  Funny how the news decides to have those on random days that aren't even that large.  Don't believe the hype.


Wednesday, January 25, 2012

1/25/12 - Blacks

Tried to park on Farms Rd today but it was zooed out by what looked like the entire UCSD crew team so ended up driving over to the glider port and then heading down around 6:30am.   Waves were pretty fun today with chest to head hight sets, but was pretty disorganized due to the passing storm. TP buoy showing swell direction of  284 degree at 2.8-3.5ft. @ 11 seconds. Offshore Santa Ana winds again today at about 5mph with the tide on the rise.  The tide on arrival was at around 4ft rising quickly to a 5.4ft high at 9:50am.  Paddled out in front of the life guard station and battled the strong current heading south for the entire session.   With the offshores blowing it brought it in the strong smell of bacon today, probaly from the people up at the golf tournament.  Had to order a bacon breakfast sammie at work after that.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

1/22/12 - Scripps

Sunday fun day.  Waited for the tide to drop out this afternoon and for the football to begin and then snuck in solo into uncrowded overhead Scripps at around 2:30pm.  Tide was almost low at a 1.3ft right around when I paddled out going high of 4.25 ft at 9:20pm.   Good sets coming in with the south winds being held at bay as Scripps usually does.  Went out on south peak and waves were barreling in super shallow water.  Hit the ground hard numerous times and it was quite sketchy just due to the shallowness. Caught some decent ones with some pull ins and got pretty pounded.   Torrey Pines buoy showing swell at 5.8 - 7.3 ft at 270 degrees.







Saturday, January 21, 2012

1/20/11 - Blacks

Parked at the glider port and headed down around 6:30am.  Chilly winds were blowing straight offshore at 5mph and swell was showing at 280 degrees and TP buoy showing around 3ft.  The waves were swamped out with the peaking high tide at 7ft at 7am.  After the top in the wave would just mush out and not much lining up.  There were lots of dolphins in the lineup but they were really mellow today just cruising and bobbing up and down.  A couple large ones came just a few feet from me and I tried to listen to them underwater but they were even quiet.  Maybe they were still waking up.  Also plenty of birds flying around at high altitudes.

Monday, January 16, 2012

1/16/12 - Blacks

Arrived on site at 6:30 and headed down solo on this chilly wet morning.   Hike down was pretty slick with the evening rain and once down waves looked tini and disorganized.  Only one other person out  when I paddled out but about another 8 heads pulled up around 7am including Russ.  Right around that time south peak to middle bowl started working and was suprizing fun for about 45 minutes with small little lefts coming through breaking top to bottom.  Russ was right, it did have a little south angle on it at with peak direction at 251° @ 2.2 ft.   Tide was dropping out from arrival at 3ft going to 1ft at 9:39am.  Winds were dead at arriaval (showing 5mph S) with a slight increase and water visabilty was good.


Sunday, January 15, 2012

1/15/12 - Blacks

Parked at the glider port this morning around 7:30 and headed down solo.  Winds were straight offshore at about 5mph with clean waist high mini barrels rolling though with occasional chest high sets.  Looked small due to the clean conditions and you could see the sets coming in from unusually far away.  Had a small cover up on a right and few racetrack rights with only one left of the day.  Blacks did it's usual thing getting fun for about 45 minutes and then it just seemed to stop breaking  Many of the waves were closing out due to the westerly swell direction of 256 degrees but definitely some corners if you were lucky.  TP buoy showing height of 2.4-2.9ft @14.8 secs.  Mission Bay showing slightly larger 2.5 - 3.2ft at 264 degrees.   Tide was a low 1.57ft at 8:00am  rising to a mere 3ft at 1:25pm.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

1/12/12 - Blacks

Hit it this morning with Russ and head down around 6:30.  Paddled out in front of the Ho Chi Min trail.  Waves were pretty weak with some waist highish sets coming though and light offshore breeze.  Saw a pair of dolphins carving though a a set together in the crystal clear water.  Caught a few waves and then started smelling coffee and that did it for me.   Head in shortly after for a follow up seshion at Peats.  LJ buoy showing a fading 2.6 ft swell with a DWP (dominant wave period) of 12sec coming from 224° SW.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

1/10/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this very chilly morning at 6:30.  Tide was already high at 4ft and still rising to a 6 at 9:57am.  Decent sets coming in but far a few between and once the wave broke it quickly fizzled out due to too much tide.  Dolphins in the water with a fullish moon setting into the purple haze.  Surfed middle to north peak and only caught a couple that were any fun with the last wave being the best.  Torrey Pines buoy showing 3.3ft at 18sec from 278 degrees.  Wind was 5mph from the east.  Should get better with the lower tide this afternoon.

Friday, January 6, 2012

1/6/12 - Sunset cliffs

Paddled out at south garbage with Brendon at around 1:30pm. OB was a zoo getting into with people looking at the surf from every vantage point. I have never seen so many people looking at it. Waves were beautiful breaking about 1/2 mile out and got much better with the rising tide and winds dying off. Didnt catch much at first but then B and I had a couple double trouble set waves and then started getting the rhythm. Caught several more screaming rights with long arching turns. Only a few guys on the peak but was getting lucky ad well catching the sets almost as soon as paddling back out. Another epic session to remember for sure.

1/6/12 - Blacks

Wow.  Paddled out with Russ today and had a humbling day.  Thought it would be a good idea to go out with the 6'4" mini gun but the waves proved otherwise.   Winds were blowing pretty hard out of the E creating a mean offshore wind with sprays coming off the back way over the size of the waves.  Sets were double over head and breaking top to bottom even with the peaking high tide this morning at 5.76.  Primary swell direction was at 268 with Torrey Pines Buoy hitting slightly over 6ft and building.  The biggest sets coming in at south peak with stand up barrels coming though.  Sat out there for about 20 minutes and then paddled into a huge left.  Slid down the face and got my ass handed to me pretty good ( all captured on the Go Pro :).  Definitely one of the worst wipe outs I have had in a really long time and felt like I was free falling for ever when I was getting pitched.  Caught a few more waves on the north peak and then got caught on the inside and decided I had enough around 8:45am.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

1/5/12 - Blacks

Epic day!  Dropped Mikaela off at school and then headed down to Blacks from Farms Rd. with a parking spot right up front.  Was in the water by 8:45am for the changing of the guard.  Tide was a little fat at around 5ft dropping a few feet during the session with a low at 0.18 at 1:30pm.  Buoy showed the primary swell at 3ft @ 13s 270 degrees with another 1ft from 263-265.  Light offshore winds and sunny skies.  For the first 45 minutes the crowd was lite but then the waves started turning on and at least twice as many people paddled out including Taylor Knox.  Dolphins jumping in the line up and speeding around.  At first was a little frustrated with the loaner board but then quickly got used to it and had several good rides including a nice right barrel with a close call close out at the end.  At least three cameras on the shore capturing the action and camera guy commented he probably won't even post the photos since "it wasn't really that good".  Yeah right.  Stayed out for about three hours.

 

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

1/4/12 - PB Point

Surfed PB point 6:30am with Dan. High tide 6:26am 5.92 ft dropping to -0.21 feet. Wave direction at 277-280 degrees, combined sea height of 6ft. Big mushy waves with overhead sets, clean section breaking from outside with some corners on the inside. Medium crowd on the peak but spread thinly on the inside.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

1/3/12 - Blacks

Parked up front on farms road hiked down around 11:00am. Sunny skies and untypically nice and warm summer like conditions. It was predicted to be much larger than it was, but "the swell must have been scared away" according to the guy up top. Waves were small and crowed with perfectly clear shallow water breaking in less than waist high on the inside. Paddled out at middle peak since the south was closing out. Torrey pines buoy reading at less than 2ft from 260-275 degrees NWN and tide was bottoming out at 0.7ft .

Monday, January 2, 2012

1/2/12 - Blacks

Foggy morning with dense fog advisory in effect until 10am.  Pulled up at 6:30am and shortly after being fumed out by light offshore winds blowing from the honey wagon's direction Russ and I headed down almost puking from the stench.   Surfed north peak before the ho chi men trail.  Waves were smallish waist high with poor form.  After the drop in not much line to work with at all but still caught a few on the blue fish.  Walked back up shortly after an hour.  Tide was at 4ft rapidly dropping to 1ft.