Wednesday, December 26, 2012

12/25/12 - Playa Grande

Afternoon session until sunset. Last day of surf in Costa Rica :(. Waves were a bit disorganized and choppy but some really fun fast rights here and there. Only a couple people out.

12/24/12 - Playa Grande CR

Upon arrival and at first glance the waves looked great. Chest to head high barreling shore pound with blue water white sand beach and offshore winds. Really fast steep unpredictable takeoffs with some good rides. Tried a few shots with the go pro on the wrist.

12/24/12 - Playa Guiones CR

Dawn patrolled this morning solo which was a bit eire. Waves were several feet overhead and the wind was blowing really hard offshore causing the spray to come at least 20 ft off the tops. As the sun started rising all of the sprays off the back of the waves had rainbows in them which looked amazing. Some really fun long rights. Stayed out for 3 hours before packing up the car for the drive to Playa Grande.

Sunday, December 23, 2012

12/23/12 - Playa Guiones CR

Building swell with over head waves and some really fun rights. Winds still strong offshore. Surfed for almost 5 hours. Came back in to grab the family and built a shelter out of logs. Got some Go Pro footage as well. Waves are much thinner compared to back home.

12/22/12 - Playa Guinones CR

Paddled this afternoon after going to try and do the boat ride. Winds still howling offshore but was able to get a few head high good rights. Met the Jersey local and stayed out for about 3 hours before coming in to surf with Mikaela.

12/21/12 - playa guiones CR

Arrived at the new hotel today. Headed out for afternoon session. Choppy slop. Only stayed out for a little bit before coming back in to play with the kiddies

12/20/12 - Santa Teresa CR

Surfed in the morning and had some really fun ones again. Waist to chest long rides. Clear water with bat rays. Moved to Meli Melo in the afternoon.

12/18/12 - Santa Teresa CR

Fun morning session that got good for about 45 min. Waist to chest semi glassy. Surfed in the evening when everyone was out.

12/17/12 - Santa Teresa CR

12/16/12 - Santa Teresa CR

Afternoon session after checking in. Choppy slop with a couple fun ones.

12/15/12 - Dominical

Waist chest - poor. Surfed with all the Canadians in front of lifeguard. Pouring rain.

12/14/12 - Dominical CR

Surfed the river mouth with a couple of the Canadians. Waist high low tide barreling fast sections with some really fun ones.

12/13/12 - Dominical CR

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

12/12/12 - Dominical CR

After waking from a 10 hour sleep and having breakfast this morning I walked north to Dominical which is about a mile from the hotel. I surfed the south main peak for about 4 hours and waves were 2-4 ft with a slight bump on them. The tides are crazy down here with 10ft swings and with tomorrow being a new moon its a large one. Surfed solo for about 2 hours until some guy and his girl from Israel joined me. Tried surfing with a trucker hat which proved to be challenging but was super nice with that sun. Since the tide had come up so high it was challenging to walk back on the rocks. I was so thirsty on the way back I had to crack a coconut on the rocks which is always refreshing. I love the fact that you could survive on the land here if you had to. Once we had lunch we hit a super nice little waterfall close to the hotel that had a little swimming hole and a rope swing. We had the spot all to ourselves until we left which was awesome.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

12/11/12 - Dominical CR

Arrived at the Costa Parisio late last night after a grueling day of travel. Shortly after checking in we got to see the first torrential downpour. We got a very good nights rest at the beautiful hotel and after having breakfast this morning at the hotel I walked north to Dominical to surf around 8am. Surfed solo for hours until people starting coming out to join. Waves were small at first but then after paddling further north a few fun ones started coming in. It was mostly waist high or so but it is amazing how power this beach break is. Water was also really warm and had to be over 80 degrees since I was hot even in the water. Surfed for about 4 hours before heading back for lunch.

Later in the day we packed up the family in the car and headed to town ( if you want to call it that) and we played on the beach and I went back out again for another hour. Waves were only chest high and a bit walled up but there were a couple really racey fun ones out there. Hard to believe but this beach break is even more powerful than Blacks! Completely exhausted and sunburned right now but feels damn good to be in the warm weather and water again.

Friday, December 7, 2012

12/7/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this foggy drizzly morning with Russ around 6:30am.  Waves were really fun on the waist to chest high range with them being a little mushy but some good clean bowly lines as well.  The crowd was minimal as well at first with the WNW swell angle spreading everyone out as well.  Stayed in front of the Hoi Chi for the majority of the session.  TP buoy showing more energy today at 2-2.5ft, 278 degrees, 10secs with combined sea height at 4.7 feet.   Slight NE wind at 3mph.  About 15 minutes after paddling out a guys paddled up to me to ask me if I saw "that" and mentioned that he thought he saw a large animal out there thinking it was a small whale (hopefully) but did see dolphins about a half an hour later so that is always a good sign.  Paul joined in on the action as well.  Good times.






Thursday, December 6, 2012

12/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6:30am.  Waves pretty mushy for the most part in the waist high range but there were a couple of fun ones coming through and there was hardly anyone out so that is always nice.  Winds were offshore at about 5 mph and it was a bit overcast.  Stayed out until 8am and then came in.









Tuesday, December 4, 2012

12/4/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning shortly after 6am.  Waves were in the waist high range and pretty mushy today.  Paddled out solo for the first hour and then Russ joined later on.  The conditions seemed to get a little bit better with the slow rising tide but not much.  Hardly and wind and relatively warm as well.  Had a seal pop up right next   to me on the inside.  TP buoy showing declining swell at 1.7 -2.3 ft, 11secs, 277 degrees, combined sea height at 3ft.



Monday, December 3, 2012

12/3/12 - Blacks

Paddled out solo this morning before work and headed down from the GP.  Waves were really clean and fun in the head high range with really long long rides coming through.  They were a bit mushy but there were definitely some decent stand up sections with some of the waves trying to barrel.  Stayed in front of the Hoi Chi Men trail with only a few head out.  Hardly any wind on it either.  Tide was coming up slight from the 3ft low and TP buoy showing 3.1-3.9ft, 285 degrees, 12 seconds and combined sea height.



Saturday, December 1, 2012

12/1/12 - Sunset Cliffs, South Garbage

Paddled out this morning with B at around 7.  The waves were pretty big with the sets a few feet overhead and light offshore winds. Rode the new 6'6" which was good because you had to paddle at least 500+ yards to get out to the break.  Had some bomber drop ins with people hooting at hollering on a one really nice drop on the outter north side peak.  Seemed that only a few had a decent face with the left being better. Since the tide was coming up I was unable to get out near the staircase since that was completely covered in water, so had to get out further south and then climb up a super sketchy section of the cliff which required me to hold the board in one hand and then use a rope to climb up the slick muddy cliff face.

Friday, November 23, 2012

11/23/12 -Sunset Cliffs, Subs

Surfed the Cliffs with B and J on this gloomy day dark afternoon.  I picked them up first and we all paddled out at Subs.  Waves were decent size but they were mushy and overall pretty crappy with the incoming tide. We only stayed out for about an hour before calling it quits.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

11/22/12 - Sunset Cliffs - Subs

Surfed this Thanksgiving day at Subs today with J and B.  Headed down first solo and followed the "Don" down the trail to get to the break.  Tried out the new 6'6" which was a perfect board for the cliffs for the paddle factor alone.  Waves were head high to a few feet over head with some really fun long rides and some race track reform sections.  There was a decent sized crowd and the sets took a really long time to come in but the ones that did were a really fun.

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

11/21/12 - Blacks

A lot more fun today with waves in the waist to shoulder high range again but much better faces to the wave with some nice racey sections.  Lefts seemed to form better.  Stayed on north peak in front of the Ho Chi with Russ with Paul joining us later.  Strong rip current just south of the trail.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

11/20/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from the Ho Chi Men trail right after B went down.  There were a couple fun ones but overall kind of another mushy morning sessions with tide swapping things out.  Waves were in the waist to shoulder range.  Got out around 8 for the slick walk up the trail after the light rains.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

11/18/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded glider port parking lot this morning to meet Russ at around 6:30am.  There were a couple of fun ones but not that many with the waves in the waist high range but mostly mushy with a few of them lining up here and there.  Stayed on north peak for most of day.  There was a rainbow straight out for the first 15 minutes with slight showers rolling through for a bit.  Light to no wind.  TP buoy showing 2.3-2.9 ft, combined 3.3ft, 260-278 degrees.

Saturday, November 17, 2012

11/17/12 - Blacks

Went down this morning from the Ho Chi Men trail.  Not much for surf today with the waves being really inconsistant, closed out, and knee to waist high range.  Only stayed out for about 20 minutes before calling it quits.

Sunday, November 11, 2012

11/11/12 - PB Drive

Surfed PB drive this morning for the first time in about a year.   Checked all the spots from Blacks down but I think the tide just started pulling back a bit by the time I got down to PB.  Paddled out solo at first and then B joined up for the sesh.  There were a couple of ok ones for the first hour but then the swell rapidly just died off.  It's definitely starting to feel like winter out there and could have easily worn booties.

Friday, November 9, 2012

11/8/12 - Blacks

Headed down this rainy morning from Farms Rd.  Waves were mostly in the waist high range with a bit of storm funk to it but definitely a few fun ones at first.  It looked like it was going to get better with the 5mph offshore winds and some of the waves opening up, but then the tide kept dropping and then it pretty much went flat.  Hardly anyone in the lineup today with Russ joining the session a little later.

Monday, November 5, 2012

11/5/12 - Blacks

Waves were in the chest high range with some decent size but mostly close outs with the swell direction in the 270 range.  Surfed with Paul and Russ and gradually paddled up to north peak to avoid the thickening crowded on main peak.  Cut out kind of early and headed back up the glider port to grab coffee and call it a day.

Sunday, November 4, 2012

11/4/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Ho Chi Men again today but what a difference it was today.  Waves where basically flat and should have known with the very few amount of cars parked at the top.  Stayed out for maybe 30 minutes before getting out there and heading home.  

Saturday, November 3, 2012

11/3/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from the Ho Chi Men with B.  Waves were pretty fun in the waist high range and were an interesting because they looked good as far as shape but were also kind of soggy at the same time.  A lot of familiar faces in the line up today and stayed next to the trail for the most part.  The dolphins were putting on quite the show and were really frisky with a few of the jumping way out of the water.  One even seemed to be trying to do some tricks in the air.  Water was decently warm and called it a day around 9 for a trip to Peets for some coffee with Russ.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

10/31/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from Farms Rd and was out around 7am.  Not much out there today with waves in the knee to waist high range and were pretty soggy with the rising tide.   Caught a couple of fun ones before the tide completely killed it around 8am.  Wore the 4/3 today for the first time to stay warm since yesterday I was freezing. Overall a pretty uneventful day.  Swell was almost directly out of the west which would explain the close outs as well.



Tuesday, October 30, 2012

10/30/12 - Blacks

Headed down this chilly morning from Farms Rd and made it out shortly after 6:30am.  Waves were decent right when I paddled out and were in the waist high range and had a really good left but not many other ones with the encroaching tide.  Decent shape and very little wind.  With the moon being close to full and the fog splitting down the middle to the moon made for a really picturesque scene.  When Paul and I were getting ready to paddle out a decent sized rock broke off of the cliff and banged to the ground.  Swell was primarily out of the west from 267 degrees showing 1.6-2ft.



Saturday, October 20, 2012

10/20/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Farms this drizzly wet morning.  Waves mostly crap with barley waist high sets and close outs.  Caught maybe two that were alright but other than that not much to speak of.  Clouds lingering and slight increase in the south winds to 5mph during the session.  Tons of seaweed on the inside as well.  Most of the swell coming mainly close from West @ 270 and shorter period stuff.  The swell picture taken below is from 1:30pm today and is already indicating a bit more southernly direction to it.  Possibility of some wind swell tomorrow but we will see.




Wednesday, October 17, 2012

10/17/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning a little bit later than usual but was out in the water by 6:40.  Waves picked up in size and were mainly in the head high range to maybe a bit overhead on sets.  Winds were also offshore making for some hollow sections.  Note to self for future sessions - don't try and ride a 5'8" made for groveling on a day that has power otherwise you will find yourself sliding out on bottom turns and also having to air drop into to sets.  Besides the undergunage there were some really fun lefts rolling though and crowds not too bad on N peak which is where I tried to stay today.  The conditions started changing quite a bit with the south starting to show and the swampy high tide.

TP buoy information shown below with combined at 4.2ft, 226-285 degrees, 13.8 seconds

10/1717:06:003.92.313.82532.210.42801.217.12262.6 -3.213.8
10/1716:06:004.22.313.92492.410.42801.417.22162.6 -3.213.9
10/1715:06:004.22.313.82472.410.42801.217.32102.5 -3.113.8
10/1714:06:004.42.613.82592.610.42851.317.22262.9 -3.613.8
10/1713:06:004.22.614.02481.717.22112.610.42813.0 -3.714.0







Monday, October 15, 2012

10/15/12 - Blacks

Headed down with Russ this morning at about 6:30 and paddled out on north peak.  Waves were a lot more fun today in the waist to shoulder high range with clear water and conditions to match.  The tidal surge to almost 7ft definitely started affect the conditions.  Caught a few pretty fun ones with not many people out and stayed near ho chi men for the entire day.   TP buoy showing 2.4-3.4ft, 212-219, 18 seconds but the La Jolla surf showing more west in there as well as you can see below.  Winds were next to nothing.




Sunday, October 14, 2012

10/14/12 - Blacks

Headed out this morning around 6 from the GP.  The water conditions were a bit sickly today after the recent rains with tons of sea weed and debris.  Waves were in the waist to shoulder high but were mostly closed out with a few corners here and there.  Paul joined up just as I was about to call it quits so decided to stay a while longer to see if things improved.  Tide swamped it out so it never really pulled together.  Water temperature dropped down to 64 degrees and getting cold in the morning.  It's started to feel like Fall.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

10/11/12 - Blacks

Headed down today from Farms Rd shortly after 6 this morning.  The sky was looking ominous with the incoming storm but seemed to split around Blacks with thick clouds coming in north and south with a clear sky down the middle.  Some cool looking rainbows on the north side with a double forming as well.  Waves were in the waist high range and clean with the 5-10 mph SE offshore winds but the angle was just too west so most waves would just close out.  Paul joined the session and I paddled over to N peak to hang for a few before deciding to bail early.  TP buoy showing interesting readings today with primary at 3.1-3.8ft, 206-269 degrees, 17 secs, combined 2.8.  With this buoy really far out it is definitely picking up the steep south.






Tuesday, October 9, 2012

10/9/12 - Blacks

Met up with B for the walk down this morning for a super fun day.  First thing I noticed when pulling up to the lot was the winds were blowing nicely offshore at about 5 mph.  Waves were really fun today with mostly waist to chest high sets but breaking really nice with barrels.  For the majority of the session I stayed down on main peak since all the loc dogs chasing the waves up to north peak.  Since a good majority of the energy out of the NW there were a lot of rights and it made it look like it was always just a little bit better north of where ever you decided to sit.  Saw Danny and Russ get some really nice barrels from afar and some of the waves looked like we were in Indo.  Water and air temps nice and warm with just overall pretty epic conditions. TP buoy showing 1.7-2.1ft with a wide range of angle from 215-284 (major contributor to waves today) and combined sea height of 3.8ft.  Tide was slowly dropping from a 3.7ft high upon arrival.




10/8/12 - Blacks

Headed out solo this morning and waves were crap for the hour of the day.  I started on N peak to avoid the little pack down on main but shortly after most of the locals left though the waves started firing around 7:30.  The conditions literally changed from crap to good in what seemed to be a matter of minutes.  At that point I was catching back to back waves with hardly any break for 45 minutes or so.  Over all a fun session for at least the last half of the day.




Sunday, October 7, 2012

10/7/12 - Blacks

Pulled up this Sunday morning at around 7am and by chance Chris B was in the parking lot.  Couple fun ones out there but didn't last long before the hunger from down under kicked in.  Russ was also out in the water and we called it a session after about an hour and a half.

Saturday, October 6, 2012

10/6/12 - Blacks

Headed down around 7am this morning solo.   The air was a little chilly this morning but the water felt nice and warm in comparison.  Conditions were nice with clear water and little to no wind with waist to shoulder high waves.  Surfed on main  peak for a good part of the session before trying to paddle to the north peak but the current made it really difficult to get over there.  Had several decent onces but my surfing still feeling a bit off for some reason.  Stayed out for 3 hours before calling it quits.  TP buoy showing 2.4-3ft, @204 degrees, 14secs, 3.3ft combined.  There was also quite a bit of WNW swell as well that helped spread out the crowds.





Wednesday, October 3, 2012

10/3/13 - Blacks

Headed down solo from the GP into think fog this morning shortly after 6am.  You could barely see anything down at the beach and could not even see the waves when standing on shore.  Not much swell in the water this morning with some long period south still lingering and no more north.  If you were lucky you might get a corner here or there but also a lot of close outs with the background 230 direction.  No wind to speak of and decent shape but just too inconsistent to be much fun and still a but crowded since the waves were onlu breaking on the south-main peaks.  Got out of the water after about an hour and headed into work.   TP buoy showing primary swell from 202 @ 15secs, 2.6-3.3ft, 2.8 combined.





10/2/12 - Blacks

Surfed with B this morning and headed down from the GP.  We were out in the water when it was still dark but the moon light was bright enough to light the way.  Waves were inconstant in the mostly wait to barely chest high with really long waits between sets.  The north swell was fading away but there was still a little pulse that would occasionally hit the north peak but not much.  Stayed on south peak for the majority but it got really crowded . Didn't catch many waves and was out of the water by 8am.  Overall not that great of a session but as always a good way to start the day.



Monday, October 1, 2012

10/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for dawn patrol before work.  Waves were pulsing out of the south and were head high to a few feet overhead.  Headed out on north peak but the sets were really coming in on main peak so headed down there to join the crowds.  Had a few really run ones but the waits for those sets were pretty long.  Got my ass handed to me on a set wave when I dropped in on an over head wave, grabbed a backside rail and setup for a little cover up but the wave wobbled a bit and took the lip to the side of the head, bong!   Didn't catch that many waves but the ones that I did were pretty long rides.  The swell definitely had a hint of winter power.  TP buoy showing 3.6-4.5ft, 214-275 degrees, 14.9 secs, 3.9ft combined.




Sunday, September 30, 2012

9/30/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Russ and Chris and made it down early enough to see the full moon party still going on.  The moon also looked really cool reflecting off the ocean making it look like there was a path leading all the way to it.  We headed out right around ho chi men trail and had a pretty fun session.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range and pretty glassy conditions.  The rising tide definitely messed with the conditions and decided to get out early since I had to get ready for Markus's birthday.



Image taken from Surfline photo archive but is from the same day.

Friday, September 28, 2012

9/28/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning with Russ shortly after 6am.  Waves were better today with the size in the waist to chest high range.  It was a bit glassier as well with some nice sweeping lefts rolling through some with decent sized barrels.  The tide kind of killed it though with it going high to a 5.4 ft around 9am.  No seaweed monsters on the inside today which is surprising since it wasn't on the beach either so it just seemed to have disappeared.  The was also long waits between sets but at least a bunch of locals out so that was cool.  Tp buoy showing a quick little pulse this morning with with estimated height at 3.0-3.8ft, 204-214 degrees, 17 seconds and combined height at 4ft.   Overall a fun day with plenty of good ones to go around.




Thursday, September 27, 2012

9/27/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning solo at 6am and it was still pitch dark out when I got there.    Conditions were decent again today with waist to chest high that were ever changing with the rapidly rising tide.  There was a lot of sea weed again this morning on the inside and you could get completely tangled if you rode the wave too far in.  Pretty short rides for the most part but a few fun ones out there as well.  Surfed main peak for most of the morning and saw Paul out in the water as well.  As the tide filled in it moved more north and ended up near the trail again.   Tidal swings a little unusual with 6 hours swings as we must be approaching a full moon again here soon.  High tide right around the time I left at 8:20 at 5ft with a moderate surge from 0ft.  Winds shifted around quite a bit as well and was first offshore at first and then started blowing on and off out of the NW.  Buoy reporting 2.5-3.2 with a mix of swell from 213-242(primary), 13.5 secs, at 3.4ft combined.


Wednesday, September 26, 2012

9/26/12 - Blacks

Headed down for a solo mission this morning and was out around 6:15.  Waves were pretty fun in the waist to chest high range with light SE offshore winds in the morning with a lot less crowded than yesterday.  Still a bit on the inconsistent side but definitely a few ones.  Stayed on north peak for the majority of the time with Danny joining shortly after getting out.  With the tide coming up the conditions changed as usual and the wind started blowing out of the north.  Buoy showing 2.7-3.4ft, 224-262 degrees, 14 second intervals, combined height at 3.5ft.  Conditions went from good to nothing and then started getting good again.  




Tuesday, September 25, 2012

9/25/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded parking lot this morning at 6:15am and look like the hype swell has arrived along with everyone in the county.  Waves were decent size at head high or so but the direction was too west (good call B) from 245-258 with heights showing 3.0-3.7ft at 15 seconds, combined at 3.4ft and building.   Good to note for future sessions is that looking at Google Earth Blacks Beach is face almost exactly 270 degrees (photo attached).  Mostly close out funky double ups with some occasional makeable sections if you were lucky.  Paddled out at the hoi chi trail and stayed there for the duration of the stay.  Waves were breaking all the way down in front of Farms Rd and you could see heads all the way down.  Tide was a little swamped out at peaked at a 4.5ft at 7:20 dropping to 2ft.  Hopefully we get a bit more angle on it for tomorrow.




Sunday, September 23, 2012

9/23/12 - Blacks

Went down this Sunday morning at 6:00am for some groveling in really small surf.  Waves were knee to barley waist but the angle was a not quite right at 207-213 degrees, at 1.3-1.7ft, 13 secs.  Also another foot of a NW 264 degrees.  Met up with Russ and Tom after getting out. Water was warm but not much going on out there.  Dropping tide also not helping much either.


Friday, September 21, 2012

9/21/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning with full crew Russ, Brendan and Barrett and Paul joining the party later.  Waves were fun in the waist to chest high range and a bit inconsistent at first with it getting better closer to 8:30 or so.  We all paddled out north of the ho chi men and had our own private peak for some time before a few heads joined us about a half an hour later. There was a bit of a wait for the waves today but the ones that did break best were the outside and going mainly going right.  Tide was low at 6:40am with only medium surge of 3ft.  TP buoy showing 2-2.5ft, with a combined sea height of 4ft.  The south swell was diminishing from 205 degrees with most of what we were riding today was the shorter period stuff from the 287 mark as the chart below shows. Overall another really fun day.








Thursday, September 20, 2012

9/20/12 - Blacks

Headed down solo this morning for dawn patrol and walked down from the GP.  Today was a lot cleaner than last night with the waves in the waist to chest high range.  It was still a bit sectiony but there was definitely the occasional fun one that would line up nicely.  The rising tide around 6am  also seemed to help push the sets as well with almost a 4ft swing.   Stayed north in front of the ho chi trail and saw a few familiar faces out there as well including Heath.  Water was a little chilly and the fog started rolling in later in the session.  Tp buoy showing 2.5-3.1ft, 4.5ft combined with primary swell from 197 @ 15secs but also a little short period wind swell from 284 degrees @ 8.3 secs.


9/19/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 5pm today for a little afternoon sessions and headed down from the GP.  Waves were around chest high for the sets but a little peaky and disorganized.  Tide was going low at around 6:45pm so that was making it a little wishy washy as well.  Surfed mainly the north side to avoid the hoards of people out.  Buoy was showing 3.0-3.8ft with a mostly south swell at 15secs from 191-202degrees.  Combined sea height at 3.8ft.  Stayed out until sun down to try to get a few uncrowded ones down on the main peak and then walked up in the dark.


Monday, September 17, 2012

9/16/12 - Blacks

Pulled into the glider port around 1pm today for an afternoon solo session.  The parking lot was packed as all the nudies were out in full force with hot summerish sun.  Winds were a light onshore and tide was dropping to even at 4pm.  Not a lot of size today but with the new stick there were plenty of ridable waves.  Waves were mostly knee to waist with the occasional chest high coming through later. The water was really warm and clear today and you could see to the bottom when you were surfing.  With the water being so clear it actually kind of made it hard to judge and was a little distracting to see the shadow on the sea floor.  Caught a bunch of waves near north peak with hardly anyone out at first.  Probably because of the football games today as well as the Chargers starting at 1pm.  Buoy showing 2.5-3.1ft, 16 seconds, from 187-200 degrees.


9/17/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning at the usual time before work and walked down the Farms Rd way for a change.  Waves we pretty small with most of them in the knee to occasional waist high sets.  Conditions were nice with no wind and warm and clear water.  Once Paul showed up it look like it was going to start getting better for about thirty minutes with the tidal push but one that came up it was over.  The rights were better with some fast make able corners around mini barreling shape.  TP buoy showing 1.7-2.2ft, 182 degrees, 9.3secs , and 3.4ft combined.  Looks like most of the steep angle south is just going right by San Diego.  High tide a 6ft at 10am with a swing of 5.5 ft.