Thursday, January 5, 2012

1/5/12 - Blacks

Epic day!  Dropped Mikaela off at school and then headed down to Blacks from Farms Rd. with a parking spot right up front.  Was in the water by 8:45am for the changing of the guard.  Tide was a little fat at around 5ft dropping a few feet during the session with a low at 0.18 at 1:30pm.  Buoy showed the primary swell at 3ft @ 13s 270 degrees with another 1ft from 263-265.  Light offshore winds and sunny skies.  For the first 45 minutes the crowd was lite but then the waves started turning on and at least twice as many people paddled out including Taylor Knox.  Dolphins jumping in the line up and speeding around.  At first was a little frustrated with the loaner board but then quickly got used to it and had several good rides including a nice right barrel with a close call close out at the end.  At least three cameras on the shore capturing the action and camera guy commented he probably won't even post the photos since "it wasn't really that good".  Yeah right.  Stayed out for about three hours.

 

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