1/6/12 - Blacks

Wow.  Paddled out with Russ today and had a humbling day.  Thought it would be a good idea to go out with the 6'4" mini gun but the waves proved otherwise.   Winds were blowing pretty hard out of the E creating a mean offshore wind with sprays coming off the back way over the size of the waves.  Sets were double over head and breaking top to bottom even with the peaking high tide this morning at 5.76.  Primary swell direction was at 268 with Torrey Pines Buoy hitting slightly over 6ft and building.  The biggest sets coming in at south peak with stand up barrels coming though.  Sat out there for about 20 minutes and then paddled into a huge left.  Slid down the face and got my ass handed to me pretty good ( all captured on the Go Pro :).  Definitely one of the worst wipe outs I have had in a really long time and felt like I was free falling for ever when I was getting pitched.  Caught a few more waves on the north peak and then got caught on the inside and decided I had enough around 8:45am.