Tuesday, January 1, 2013
Picked up Josh this morning around 7am and headed down to try and beat the upcoming tide and crowds. Waves dropped off a few feet with most in the 3-5ft range with some random over head sets still coming though. The tide made most of the rides pretty soggy but a few fun ones still out there. The water was so freaking cold I could not hold my fingers together when paddling.
Paddled out today with Josh. Size was decent with in the 3-7 ft range. Conditions started to get really fun for about 30 minutes with "buttery" smooth barrels. Main peak was the spot with some swinging wide to the north peak. The high tide seemed to kill the waves though as it filled in. water was a shocking 58 degrees compared to CR's 82 degrees. Time for a new wetsuit.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Upon arrival and at first glance the waves looked great. Chest to head high barreling shore pound with blue water white sand beach and offshore winds. Really fast steep unpredictable takeoffs with some good rides. Tried a few shots with the go pro on the wrist.
Dawn patrolled this morning solo which was a bit eire. Waves were several feet overhead and the wind was blowing really hard offshore causing the spray to come at least 20 ft off the tops. As the sun started rising all of the sprays off the back of the waves had rainbows in them which looked amazing. Some really fun long rights. Stayed out for 3 hours before packing up the car for the drive to Playa Grande.
Sunday, December 23, 2012
Building swell with over head waves and some really fun rights. Winds still strong offshore. Surfed for almost 5 hours. Came back in to grab the family and built a shelter out of logs. Got some Go Pro footage as well. Waves are much thinner compared to back home.