Monday, September 10, 2012

9/10/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning at 6am with Russ not expecting much but the waves were actually even better today and nobody out!  Waves were mostly in the waist to chest high range with glassy conditions and  longer rides with top to bottom racy lines.  Second day on the sub scorcher and felt like I was stating to getting a better feel for the board today and am pretty convinced now that a purchase could happen here in the near future.  We paddled out again just north of the ho chi men trail and nobody in site except way down on south peak for the duration of the session.  The swell was really consistent with short period sets and was able to time a few where I caught maybe 4 waves in a row without stopping the paddle and actually had to let some go by just because I was exhausted.  Water was also warm and was a little too hot in the new suit.  Tide was just peaking  at 7:30am at a 3.6 ft and a light surge.  TP buoy only showing a 1.2-1.5ft, 7.7secs, 290 degrees, and 3.3 ft.


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