Thursday, September 20, 2012

9/19/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 5pm today for a little afternoon sessions and headed down from the GP.  Waves were around chest high for the sets but a little peaky and disorganized.  Tide was going low at around 6:45pm so that was making it a little wishy washy as well.  Surfed mainly the north side to avoid the hoards of people out.  Buoy was showing 3.0-3.8ft with a mostly south swell at 15secs from 191-202degrees.  Combined sea height at 3.8ft.  Stayed out until sun down to try to get a few uncrowded ones down on the main peak and then walked up in the dark.


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