Thursday, September 27, 2012

9/27/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning solo at 6am and it was still pitch dark out when I got there.    Conditions were decent again today with waist to chest high that were ever changing with the rapidly rising tide.  There was a lot of sea weed again this morning on the inside and you could get completely tangled if you rode the wave too far in.  Pretty short rides for the most part but a few fun ones out there as well.  Surfed main peak for most of the morning and saw Paul out in the water as well.  As the tide filled in it moved more north and ended up near the trail again.   Tidal swings a little unusual with 6 hours swings as we must be approaching a full moon again here soon.  High tide right around the time I left at 8:20 at 5ft with a moderate surge from 0ft.  Winds shifted around quite a bit as well and was first offshore at first and then started blowing on and off out of the NW.  Buoy reporting 2.5-3.2 with a mix of swell from 213-242(primary), 13.5 secs, at 3.4ft combined.


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