Friday, August 31, 2012

8/31/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for a what looks like a repeat of yesterday sessions with the waves in the knee to waist but a bit less consistent.  Tide was also on the rise which a large 5ft blue moon swing.  Winds were calm and water was glassy as an oil slick but unfortunately the crowd was out early this morning and was out with Russ and Paul.  Danny was providing a sick airshow for the day with tails flying high and making it look super easy....must be nice.  Stayed on north peak again for about 2 hours until it was time to head to Peets.  Buoy 100 showing 1.2-1.4ft, with a mix of direction from 202-278 degrees, 11 and 8 seconds respectively.  Combined sea height at 3ft.  Swell is on the rise so we will see what is in store for the weekend.

8/30/12 - Blacks

Headed down from GP this morning at 6ish and on the walk down the conditions looked a little better than they actually but it was nice to actually see some waves again.  Size was in the knee to waist high range on the sets and really glassy.  When Russ and I paddled out we hit the peak north of the ho chi men and head that all to ourselves for about a half an hour until the swarm decided to paddled out on top of us.  Caught a few fun ones with a few racey rights.  The swell looked to be just the left over NW wind swell with short intervals.  Tide was dead low on the rise.  Tp buoy showing just under 2ft.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

8/22/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning around 6am from the GP and waves were pretty small overall.   Russ joined up shortly after getting out and we stayed on north peak for most of the session.  Just after the few people that were out left the waves looked like they were going to get fun with a couple waist high racey sets breaking into less than knee high water.  The visibility was super clear and you could see all of the bait fish and sting rays swimming around.   Tide was swing high at around 6am so that little push could have cause the fun little 10 minutes that we had. TP buoy only showing 1.5-1.9ft, 207 degrees, 15 seconds with primary swell at 2ft.



Sunday, August 19, 2012

8/19/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Chris and headed down from the TP GP at around 6:30. Waves were in the knee - waist range with clean, fast little make-able lines.  We stayed mainly on north peak and almost to the ho chi men trail and had our own peak for about an hour when a few more people started coming out but the crowd still stay pretty spread out with a lot of people even further north then we were.  The was a ton a bait fish swimming around as well as a larger fishing vessel just off shore reeling them in.  The water so clear that you could see the ripples on the bottom of the sand and the temperature was nice and warm.  Over all nice morning with some fun little waves.   Tide was on it's way up and TP buoy was showing 2.2 - 2.7 ft, 192 degrees, 15.4 seconds and a 3.1ft sea height.


Saturday, August 18, 2012

8/17/12 - Blacks - Part2

Cut out of work a little early and headed down solo for the round two afternoon session around 4pm.  It was a beautiful summer day and really hot so it definitely felt good to get in the water.  Paddled out around 4:30pm and the waves were actually a little bit better than they were in the morning.  Most were in the waist to chest range with the very occasional larger sets coming through about every ten minutes.  The sets were really showing from the expected south swell and were mainly hitting south to middle peak with it occasionally swinging wide to the north.  Started on the north side of middles and then ended up working my way into the crowd to get some.  The lefts were a lot better which is typical of the souths and many were makable with a few close outs. The water was super warm and ended up having to take the top part of my wetsuit off just to cool down a bit.  Tide was just on the way when I first got out and was swinging pretty good at 4-5ft. Stayed out for 3 hours total and definitely could feel it on the walk up.  I could feel my feet blistering on the front so the hike up the gliderport section was a little painful.  As soon as I got home I had to put the feet on ice since it felt like they were burning up but that is what happens when you run down that trail twice in one day with no shoes.

Friday, August 17, 2012

8/17/12 - Blacks

Friday funday.  Headed out the morning at the usual time before work and was a little skeptical about the waves based on yesterdays conditions and since the buoy looked similar but was pleasantly surprised to see that the swell was hitting.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range with clean bowly lefts rolling through. There was also a bit of NW short period wind swell in the water as well so that really help thin out the crowd which was in full effect today.  Water was super warm and hot in the short shelve full at first but then when I headed to the north peak was glad I had it since it chilled down quite a bit.  The tide was really pushing from a negative to a 5ft high at 10am.  TP buoy showing similar primary swell as yesterday at 2.4-3.0ft at 198 degrees, at 16.2 seconds intervals, sea height showing 3.1ft.  I think the biggest difference today was the 4 second NW that helped out big time since the south is at such a steep angle.


Thursday, August 16, 2012

8/16/12 - Blacks

Not much to talk about today.  Very small and very inconsistent.  Maybe had two waves total before I took off.  Swell must be missing Blacks with the 195 degree angle and 2.3-2.7 height for the primary swell so good to note for future reference.  Long periods from the Chilean swell at 17.6 seconds.  Tide was pushing in as well but that didn't seem to help much.

Monday, August 13, 2012

8/13/12 - Blacks

Went out this morning for a solo session and was in the water around 6:20am.  Waves were about waist-chest high and throwing pretty good on a very shallow inside section.  Waits for the sets were fairly long but for about 1/2 hour it started getting really fun but then the crowd started filling in.  The summer haole crowd was definitely out there and only saw one or two regulars.  Had a few really nice drops into the pocket with a few good hits so overall a fun day.  TP buoy showing 2.1-2.6ft, 200 degrees at 15 seconds and combined sea height 3.2ft.    Tide swing from almost flat to 3.5ft at 8:30 and was changing the conditions a lot during the 2 duration of my stay.

8/12/12 - Oceanside

Headed up to Oside with Russ this morning and ended up paddling out on the south side of the jetty.  The conditions were beautiful with the sun blazing hot early in the morning, no wind and really warm water which made it feel like we were in Costa Rica.  The waves also looked nice with glassy lefts but unfortunately the waits between sets was fairly long and a lot of them were closing out but the sets that did hold up were nice and steep.   High tide was around 7:30am at 3ft and the swell with coming primarily from 195 degrees.

Saturday, August 11, 2012

8/11/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Chris around 6:30.  Waves were waist to chest high but mostly closing out with a few corners coming in.  Slightly crowded with the weekend warriors.  Tide was high at 3ft with only a very slight dip to low.   TP buoy showing 2.8-3.5ft, 202 degrees, 16 seconds and 3.8ft sea height.


Friday, August 10, 2012

8/10/12 - Blacks

Day of carnage.  Paddled this morning at the regular early morning hours and walked the walk solo from the glider port.  Waves were in the waist to chest range and for a while got really fun for a good hour with the south swell starting to show.  Sets were showing the typical signs of a south with them breaking from south to middles with  most of the good rides being bowly lefts that would suck out and dump on the shallow sand bar.  Interesting day though and started with my leash breaking on the very first wave.  After failing to find the stashed one in the bushes I just paddled back out without any leash. Then after seeing Paul in the water I had a close call on the inside with a guy stuck in the foam ball coming right at me partially on his stomach trying to get up.  Then as soon as I duck dived the wave that he nearly hit me on I turned around to see the same guys with blood running all down his face. Then what happened next was slightly disturbing he then asked me if he should get out of the water so I paddled closer to have a look and then as then as I approached him blood squirted out of a large gash in his forehead so I told him that he should definitely go in and get medical attention.  Saw Russ paddling out right to the north as I was heading in.  Wind was slightly out of the south and the tide was a neap high at 3ft upon arrival.  TP buoy showing 2.1-2-6ft, 199 degrees, 16 second interval, combine sea height at 3.1.




Thursday, August 9, 2012

8/9/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from Farms Rd. at the but crack of dawn and was still the fourth  person in the water today at 6am.  Waves were kind of sloppy when I first paddled out but it started getting a lot better as the tide settled into low at a 2.46ft at 8am.  At first the waves were breaking right on shore and would give you a pretty good pounding but then it was breaking a little more outside giving you a bit more time to prepare for a move.  Most were one move ride but they were also steep and fun.  Some little barrels if you were really lucky.  TP buoy only showing 1.7-2.1ft, 193 degrees, at 13.6 seconds, Sea height at 3.5ft.  Winds were dead calm as well.  A few guys that were camping up on the life guard spot with a huge fire going got popped by the authorities and probably got a hefty fine.  Water temp showing 62 but there were definitely warmer pockets and the air was nice and warm so it didn't feel bad at all in the short sleeve full.


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

8/7/12 - Blacks

Headed down from the gliderport this morning at 6:30am on this classic summer morning.   Conditions were similar to yesterday but slightly punchier with waist high clean waves which were fun up until the tide started to rise.  Winds were very calm and the surface was glassy.  Low tide was at 6:50am and the waves started getting crappy around 7:30 but there was definitely some fun ones before that happened.  Russ and I pulled the sneak attack from the north side and then headed down toward main peak for a while until more heads showed up.  TP buoy showing more energy today at 3.2-3.9ft, 189 degrees, 16.5 seconds with sea height showing 3.7ft.


Monday, August 6, 2012

8/6/12 - Blacks

Met Russ at the gliderport at 6am and headed down on this warm summer morning.  Conditions looked decent when we walking out with very little wind and finally some waves!  Sets were in the waist high + range but unfortunately the shoulders were pretty soft and the sets took a really long time to come in.  At least the water was nice and warm and it wasn't that crowed so still had fun.  For some reason I was just super tired today but still managed to get a couple waves that were decent.  Tide was rising from around 1ft this at 6:20am to 5ft at 1pm.  TP buoy showing 1.8-2.2ft range from 198 degrees at 16.5 seconds with the combined sea height at 3.2ft.  Paddled out first at north peak and finally ended up on middles.  Also worth mentioning is that yesterday when we were checking it was spotted a couple young whales straight off the cliffs jumping out of the water which was pretty cool and was the first time I've seen one in SD.


Saturday, August 4, 2012

8/2/12- Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Russ from the gp.  Cops in the parking lot waiting for the full moon hippies emerging from the depths of the cliffs.  As soon we were just about to walk down I had to give a give a jumpstart to some of the partiers that thanked with hugs.  On the way down one of the funnier characters of all time was just starting his walk up the cliff and asked if he was almost to the top.  When we told him that he just started the hike and that he had a very long way to go he though were just messing with him.  He obviously had way to much acid or something if he didn't even remember walking down and couldn't see the top.  The waves were pretty tini but there was a very long period waist high set that would come in every 10 minutes.  On the paddle out I saw a knee boarder getting barreled on a perfect barely waist high left.  It was also a bit crowded.  Sat on north peak and was joined later by Paul and after an hour or so we all decided it was time to head to Peats.   There was also a sea lion swimming on the inside right when I was bellying it back to shore.  Pretty uneventful day as far as surf but a nice one at that.