8/10/12 - Blacks

Day of carnage.  Paddled this morning at the regular early morning hours and walked the walk solo from the glider port.  Waves were in the waist to chest range and for a while got really fun for a good hour with the south swell starting to show.  Sets were showing the typical signs of a south with them breaking from south to middles with  most of the good rides being bowly lefts that would suck out and dump on the shallow sand bar.  Interesting day though and started with my leash breaking on the very first wave.  After failing to find the stashed one in the bushes I just paddled back out without any leash. Then after seeing Paul in the water I had a close call on the inside with a guy stuck in the foam ball coming right at me partially on his stomach trying to get up.  Then as soon as I duck dived the wave that he nearly hit me on I turned around to see the same guys with blood running all down his face. Then what happened next was slightly disturbing he then asked me if he should get out of the water so I paddled closer to have a look and then as then as I approached him blood squirted out of a large gash in his forehead so I told him that he should definitely go in and get medical attention.  Saw Russ paddling out right to the north as I was heading in.  Wind was slightly out of the south and the tide was a neap high at 3ft upon arrival.  TP buoy showing 2.1-2-6ft, 199 degrees, 16 second interval, combine sea height at 3.1.