Friday, August 17, 2012

8/17/12 - Blacks

Friday funday.  Headed out the morning at the usual time before work and was a little skeptical about the waves based on yesterdays conditions and since the buoy looked similar but was pleasantly surprised to see that the swell was hitting.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range with clean bowly lefts rolling through. There was also a bit of NW short period wind swell in the water as well so that really help thin out the crowd which was in full effect today.  Water was super warm and hot in the short shelve full at first but then when I headed to the north peak was glad I had it since it chilled down quite a bit.  The tide was really pushing from a negative to a 5ft high at 10am.  TP buoy showing similar primary swell as yesterday at 2.4-3.0ft at 198 degrees, at 16.2 seconds intervals, sea height showing 3.1ft.  I think the biggest difference today was the 4 second NW that helped out big time since the south is at such a steep angle.


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