8/9/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from Farms Rd. at the but crack of dawn and was still the fourth  person in the water today at 6am.  Waves were kind of sloppy when I first paddled out but it started getting a lot better as the tide settled into low at a 2.46ft at 8am.  At first the waves were breaking right on shore and would give you a pretty good pounding but then it was breaking a little more outside giving you a bit more time to prepare for a move.  Most were one move ride but they were also steep and fun.  Some little barrels if you were really lucky.  TP buoy only showing 1.7-2.1ft, 193 degrees, at 13.6 seconds, Sea height at 3.5ft.  Winds were dead calm as well.  A few guys that were camping up on the life guard spot with a huge fire going got popped by the authorities and probably got a hefty fine.  Water temp showing 62 but there were definitely warmer pockets and the air was nice and warm so it didn't feel bad at all in the short sleeve full.