Friday, April 6, 2012

4/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 and came down from Farms Rd.  Waves were fun for the first hour at about head high with the winds blowing steadily offshore and hardly anyone out.  Tried to go bootyless but the water was freezing and the feet ended up turning into meatsickles within an hour.  Tide was about half way up at 2ft and the high is peaking at a 4.82 at 9:34am.  Another strange directtion on the swell with the waves breaking right in front of the road and sets even breaking further south.  TP buoy showing 2.6-3.3 ft, 264 degrees @ 11.5 second intervals.  Looks like a large percentage was also short period swell between 4-8 seconds but still fun.  As seen below it also had a lot of southerly direction so that probably explains the waves breaking better on south peak. 


1 comment:

Anonymous said...

thing was so big it flew off with little baby barnies