Tuesday, April 3, 2012

3/31/12 - PB Drive

Paddled out at PB drive today with B and J around 12pm.  The waves were very deceiving because that didn't look very big but there was definite some chunky ones rolling though but pretty choppy with the steady gusting onshore winds.   I brought the new 5'11' stick today but should have known better with the buoy showing good size around 6ft.  I struggled to find my rhythm today with the waves not helping much since a lot of them were doubling up and mostly closing out, but there were a few corners to be had.     Had three or four waves throw me completely over the falls and caught me off guard.  First time I have surfed PB on a winter swell in a long time.  Dolphins in the water.

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