Saturday, April 28, 2012

4/28/12 - Blacks

Met up with Tony and Barrett this morning at 7:30am for the walk down to "Fucking Blacks" (as Tony kept calling it today due to the size and power of the surf :).  Definitely a nice beach day today.  Waves were head high with some over head sets coming through.  A lot of close outs but also a  lot of corners as well.  Plenty of waves to go around for the relative small crowd spread far north.  Main peak was wishy washy but it was good all way from north peak to the glider port trail.  The swell was mostly a short period NW so it was really consistant and made for a really good workout.  TP buoy was only showing 2.5 - 3ft this morning and built quickly when we were out there to be 3-3.7 when we got out.  Primary angle was a 272 degrees at a 11.3 second interval.  Dolphins and seals in the water today with clear conditions on the inside.  Stayed out for about 3 1/2 hours and definitely felt the burn later.  Will sleep good tonight thinking of maybe even better surf tomorrow.

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