Wednesday, April 4, 2012

4/4/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6:30 and came down solo from the Farms Rd way.  The swell definitely dropped but there were plently of playful head high sets coming though.  With the tide peaking at a 5ft high at 8am there was a bit too much water.  The sets were still breaking really far out and where mushy on the take off but if you could make it to the inside where it was a little steeper it made for a really long ride.  Had a few waves that broke all the way on the outside of south peak all the way to the inside of middles and would put the burn on the legs by the end of the wave.  Overall a really fun day with plenty of waves and hardly anyone out.  Air and water temp defintely warmer today than it has been, and even felt like it was time to shed those damn booties. Wind was nice for the first hour and then started picking up right around 8 o'clock.  TP buoy showing 4.1-5.1 ft, 258 degrees @14.7 secs.  Dolphin show "better than Seaworld" today.

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