Sunday, April 29, 2012

4/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning around 7am with Russ.  Waves were super fun today mostly breaking head high with a few over head sets coming though as well way on the outside.  Sort of mushy on the outside but it would connect all the way to the beach making for some really long rides.  The rights were a lot better then the lefts and would act like like they were going to close out but would hold up and connect to the inside where the waves got really fast and you had to pump just to make the steep top to bottom sections.  The sandbar north of the Ho Chi Min trail was working so there was no crowd as well.  At times I actually wanted more people to be around since I was sitting in the deep water that had that eire dark color to it .  For some reason I kept thinking about sharks (maybe they were around ;), but maybe that kept me moving around a lot as well.  Timing was on today and seemed to catch set after set.  After 3 hours I was completely exhausted after paddling for what had to be at least a mile.  Primary swell showing 4.1-5ft, 192 degrees @16.8 seconds but what I think was showing more on the north peaks was the secondary and tertiary swell from the NW 218-275 degrees.  On the walk back up  could definitely see some larger sets rolling through on south peak with the occasional spitting tube .  The tide was at about 2ft dropping to a .5 when we got out.



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