Wednesday, February 29, 2012

2/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled today around 6:45am.  Waves were pretty small with waist high sets that were breaking pretty weak. Only a few guys out and started at North Peak and ending up chasing the sets down to past the canyon where there was two guys out.  Winds were blowing steadily offshore upon arrival and it was pretty chilly out.  After about 45minutes in the water my hands got so cold that I lost control of my pinky finger and couldn't hold it together with the rest of my fingers when paddling which is a strange sensation.  A bunch of dolphins in the water today and were really relaxed just bobbing around.  Also saw a huge seal in the line up the size of a sea lion that popped up right next to me and just stared at me and dissappeared as I paddled towards it.  Stange enough the TP buoy was showing 2.2 - 2.7ft at 283 degrees at 15.7sec intervals. 

Sunday, February 26, 2012

2/26/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Russ at the usual butt crack of dawn.  On the walk down the waves didn't look at that great but it was definitely deceiving.  Right after making it out I caught three waves in rapid succession and then sat for a long time in sort of mid tide lull and then the conditions change again for the better.  During the duration of 3.5 hour session the conditions were constantly changing with the rising tide low at 1ft @5:30am creeping up to almost 3.5ft high tide at 11am.  Had a difficult time today getting in rhythm at first but after a while I finally started feeling it.  Probably just residual from riding the swallow tail stealth fish on Friday.  Buoy 100 showing 2.9-3.6ft NW at 277 degrees, 12.7sec intervals.  Winds were light off shore this morning and switched to a steady onshore breeze around the time of getting out of the water.   I saw a dolphin do one of the coolest thing I have ever seen one do today.  As a set wave was approaching he appeared out of no where and was hauling ass down the the line and the busted a big air out of lip of the wave and back into the transition just as if he were mimicking a surfer...or is the other way around?  Saw some strange fins on the outside and tried not to think anything of it until I overheard a conversion between Russ and another guy that there have been a few sightings lately.


Friday, February 24, 2012

1/24/12 - Blacks

Paddled out for a lunch session today and was there by 11:15 to meet Russ for the walk down.  It was sunny at my work but the beach was covered by a marine layer.   Waves were in the waist to chest high range with clean conditions but shifty peaks and a lot of close outs.  Still managed to find plenty of corners slightly past the Ho Chi Men trail and even got a nice barrel on a set wave where I pulled into the the barrel twice on the same wave and made it out.  Surfed by myself past the trail for the last hour.  The tide was just coming off of a high at 10am at 4ft, to a low .5ft at 4pm.  Winds were steady onshore at 6kts.  TP buoy showing 3.0 - 3.8ft at 270 degrees NW at 13 second intervals.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

2/21/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this friggid morning at 6:30. Winds were blowing offshore with the tide peaking at around 9. Waves were about chest high on the sets but were swamped out due to the tide. Sets were fun right when you drop in but would quickly mush out. Started breaking on the inside when I was leaving at 8:30 and I am betting it will be really fun on low tide. Saw a bunch of bird flying in what looks like a tornado formation. Must have been a major upwelling in the air. Also saw a seal in water after Russ mentioned that one washed ashore at scripps on Sunday without a face. Yikes. TP buoy showing 2.5 - 3.1ft at 273 degrees at 13.4 secs. High tide at 8:25am 5.6 ft dropping fast to a -.6 at 3pm.

Monday, February 20, 2012

2/20/12 - Blacks

Paddled out today for a lunch session at about 11:30 and the waves were thumping today.  First thing I heard after getting down from Farms Rd. was "be careful out there...seen a lot of broken boards today".   The sets were definetely a few feet over head today will only a handful of people out.  Made it right out with the rip currents but after the first air drop with a beat down I quickly understood the earliwe comment.  After taking the next set wave right on the noggin I almost turned around and went to shore since I was feeling a sketeched out, but I brushed of the cob webs from the weekend and maned up for round two.  I finally snapped out the weekend stupor and caught some fun drops with a few nice lefts and rights. Tide was swinging hard from a 5.8ft at 7:45am to a -.85ft at 2:32pm.  TP outer buoy only showing sea heigth of 2.7-3.4 ft at 277 degrees @13secs.  i am thinking I might have to start checking a shallower water buoy since this is just not showing the amout of varation that is happing near shore.  The water was dark today and the way the dolphins were swimming they kind of looked like sharks.  Denfitely a small sketchfest today with the slight wind chop and dark stormy waters but a few one out there nonetheless.

Friday, February 17, 2012

2/17/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at around 6:30am today and the conditions were pretty marginal.  Some chest high sets out there but the tide wasn't right so it couldn't quite make up it's mind whether it was on the outside or inside.  Only a handful of people out thankfully.  Tide was high 5:24am 5.49ft to a low at 12:45 .68ft.  Missed the buoy check this morning but it is now showing 2.5-3.2ft at 264 degrees W.  Winds were light off shore and it was really chilly walking back up with the hands going completely numb by the time I walked to the top of the cliffs.  Overall nothing special today.  Dolphins in the line up today smacking their tails on the surface of the water.  Not sure but guessing they were trying to scare the catch of the day.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

2/11/12 - Blacks

B scooped me up today and we hit the dawn patrol at 6:30.  Tide was at 1.5 feet going high to a little over 4ft at 11am.  Luckily we got it early because after about 45 minutes the wind started sweeping onshore and made it look like a raging rapids.  Decent size at head high with slight overhead sets over at middles.  Rides were pretty short and had a few good right drop ins, until I got caught in the inside toilet bowl.   I had to actually give up the paddle after at least a 15 minute, level 5 river rapids paddle session.  Walked down a bit more North and paddled out again only to catch one more since the winds were just destroying it.  TP buoy definitely showing the tell tale sign of being blown out now with the majority of the swell coming in <8 sec intervals.  Station 100 - 3.1 - 3.9ft at 272 degrees @ 13.1 secs.  Winds were slightly S at about 5mph upon arrival and by the time we left at 8:30 they were already 15mph from the E.



Monday, February 6, 2012

2/6/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to the lot presuited today at 6:20am and was out within another10 minutes. Tide was at 5ft peaking at 8am at 6ft.  Smaller than yesterday at head high or so, but definitely more fun with tons of good lefts rolling through and barley any crowd.  Surfed solo at middle peak straight off of the lifeguard station and the left bowl was rolling in from far outside all the way in.  Racey sections with some close outs but had so many waves that I was tired even after an hour of paddling.  Ended up staying out for two hours and then hurried into work around 9am :)  TP buoy showing 3.7-4.6ft at 272 degrees.  Winds were offshore at about 7-10mph with them calming as the morning progressed, but the cliffs blocked a good portion with the water staying relatively calm.  Dolphins, pelicans and seals in the lineup this morning with the waves breaking in about 10ft or more of water.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

2/5/12 - Blacks

Superbowl Sunday does it again and always seems to be a good day to surf.  This one being no exception.  Paddled out meet Russ in water around 7am with beautiful winter conditions.  Very light warm offshore breeze and sunny skies.  Definitely some decent sized ones coming through with chest high + sets.  Many people coming and gong today but the crowd remain pretty tame.  TP buoy reading 3.6-4.5ft, 274 degrees @ 13.9 secs.  Rights were better with less of a wobble and pretty racey.   Some where closing out but there were plenty of make-able rides as well.  Clear water at a nice chilly 58 degrees today.


2/5/12 - Mission Beach

Finally back in SD after a work week in Hayward.  Saturday was family fun day down at an ol favorite, San Fernando Ct. down in Mission Beach.  Arrived there at 10:30 and paddle out shortly after CB showed up.  Waves were closed out and pretty small for the most part.  Sets had better size but the straight west was killing it as well as the steady onshore breeze at around 5-8mph.  Buoy only showing around 2.5 feet.  Nice day for the kids in the sand but not much of a surf day.  Tons of sailboats out there going through a set up course which may have been a race.