1/24/12 - Blacks

Paddled out for a lunch session today and was there by 11:15 to meet Russ for the walk down.  It was sunny at my work but the beach was covered by a marine layer.   Waves were in the waist to chest high range with clean conditions but shifty peaks and a lot of close outs.  Still managed to find plenty of corners slightly past the Ho Chi Men trail and even got a nice barrel on a set wave where I pulled into the the barrel twice on the same wave and made it out.  Surfed by myself past the trail for the last hour.  The tide was just coming off of a high at 10am at 4ft, to a low .5ft at 4pm.  Winds were steady onshore at 6kts.  TP buoy showing 3.0 - 3.8ft at 270 degrees NW at 13 second intervals.