2/20/12 - Blacks

Paddled out today for a lunch session at about 11:30 and the waves were thumping today.  First thing I heard after getting down from Farms Rd. was "be careful out there...seen a lot of broken boards today".   The sets were definetely a few feet over head today will only a handful of people out.  Made it right out with the rip currents but after the first air drop with a beat down I quickly understood the earliwe comment.  After taking the next set wave right on the noggin I almost turned around and went to shore since I was feeling a sketeched out, but I brushed of the cob webs from the weekend and maned up for round two.  I finally snapped out the weekend stupor and caught some fun drops with a few nice lefts and rights. Tide was swinging hard from a 5.8ft at 7:45am to a -.85ft at 2:32pm.  TP outer buoy only showing sea heigth of 2.7-3.4 ft at 277 degrees @13secs.  i am thinking I might have to start checking a shallower water buoy since this is just not showing the amout of varation that is happing near shore.  The water was dark today and the way the dolphins were swimming they kind of looked like sharks.  Denfitely a small sketchfest today with the slight wind chop and dark stormy waters but a few one out there nonetheless.