Met B Scripps this morning at 5:45am since the wind was 8-10 mph out of the south. We tried to paddle there first but there was no parking due to the street sweepers so we headed to Blacks. We paddled out closer to the Ho Chi Men trail since the current was ripping south. I got lucky on the paddle out and made it right out though the overhead short period swell. Had a few pretty fun drop ins and and the size was decent but there was definitely some surface texture. The first right I dropped into I had a really nice turn off the top and came down to bottom turn and hit a pile of chop and my back foot just popped right off. We tried to stay closer to the North Peak since as soon as you got to the inside it was really hard to get back out. After about an hour I caught a right that took me to the inside and it was game over after that. I tried to paddle back out and must have ducked dived like 50 waves before I gave up and walked down the beach again for round 2. I tried to paddle back our further north again and was almost out when a larger outside set came though and washed me right back into the whirlpool section so I called it quits for the day. With the tide starting to come up at 6:30 and the none stop waves coming in it was almost impossible to get back out. The TP buoy was rocking at 4.4 -5.4 ft, 285 degrees, 10.3 seconds. I am ready for a nap and a massage right now.
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