Tuesday, May 1, 2012

5/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down at 6:30am this morning with B.  Waves were in the waist to chest range and were a little mushy on the outside due to the 4ft high tide, but if you could connect they got really racy and fun on the inside.  Tide was bottoming out flat at around 12pm today.  There were mostly lefts rolling though from the main peak but there also was plenty of random sets breaking a little more north, so I ended up just sitting there since it was the best section of the wave anyways.  Towards the end of the session with the tide going out the waves started breaking a bit further north and the rights started working as well.   Over another fun day and was better than predicted.  Winds were calm for almost the entire session but then it picked up at the end.  This weekend has taught me not to just go off of what the Torrey Pines bouy primary swell since the angles are very important.   Primary swell direction today was out of the south at 199 degrees but there was still 30% coming from the west as well from aroung 260 degrees.

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