5/23/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Farms Rd. and paddled out this morning at around 6am.  Tide was just swinging from a -.5 creeping up to it's high point of 3ft at noon.  The southern eddies were blowing steadily at 4 mph and at times the wind was almost offshore, but the cliffs did a pretty good job of blocking most of it and the texture was still semi glassy.  On the paddle out a knee boarder came off the back of the wave and bumped into me but luckily no harm done.  For the first hour I sat between north peak and the ho chi men trail and waited for the outside larger sets to come in.  The waves were lining up pretty well and from the shore it looked the the lines were really long but they were pretty weak as well.  After getting cold and tired of waiting for the outside sets to come in I paddled back over to main peak and started catching a lot more waves towards the inside sections which was really fun with right and left bowls.  Water temp was 65 degrees and starting to see that the southern winds really help the bring up the temp when the swell is coming out the W/NW.  Not sure that holds true with south swells though.  Primary swell coming from 283 degrees, 2.4-3ft at a short 9.2 seconds.  Over all another fun day and a good start to the morning.