Friday, June 15, 2012

6/15/12 - Blacks

Met up this morning with Deiter at 6am and headed down from the glider port as usual.  The south wind was kicking at around 5mph but the waves were still really fun.  Sets where actually connecting to the inside today and were in the head high range with more consistency.  With the final tide push going to 3ft at 8am there was tons of really fun waves with right and lefts coming through.  They did have a slight chop on the face but they were still really fun.  Caught a ton of waves and was pooped after an hour straight of back to back rides.  Stayed mostly on middles to north peak and stayed out to 8.  TP buoy showing 2.3-2.9, 278 degrees, at 10.2 seconds but it was definitely combining with two other westerly swells.  There were a few dolphins in the lineup surfing today and saw a couple catch a really nice set and say them cutting through and carving in the wave before it broke which is always cool.

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