10/31/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from Farms Rd and was out around 7am.  Not much out there today with waves in the knee to waist high range and were pretty soggy with the rising tide.   Caught a couple of fun ones before the tide completely killed it around 8am.  Wore the 4/3 today for the first time to stay warm since yesterday I was freezing. Overall a pretty uneventful day.  Swell was almost directly out of the west which would explain the close outs as well.

10/30/12 - Blacks

Headed down this chilly morning from Farms Rd and made it out shortly after 6:30am.  Waves were decent right when I paddled out and were in the waist high range and had a really good left but not many other ones with the encroaching tide.  Decent shape and very little wind.  With the moon being close to full and the fog splitting down the middle to the moon made for a really picturesque scene.  When Paul and I were getting ready to paddle out a decent sized rock broke off of the cliff and banged to the ground.  Swell was primarily out of the west from 267 degrees showing 1.6-2ft.

10/20/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Farms this drizzly wet morning.  Waves mostly crap with barley waist high sets and close outs.  Caught maybe two that were alright but other than that not much to speak of.  Clouds lingering and slight increase in the south winds to 5mph during the session.  Tons of seaweed on the inside as well.  Most of the swell coming mainly close from West @ 270 and shorter period stuff.  The swell picture taken below is from 1:30pm today and is already indicating a bit more southernly direction to it.  Possibility of some wind swell tomorrow but we will see.

10/17/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning a little bit later than usual but was out in the water by 6:40.  Waves picked up in size and were mainly in the head high range to maybe a bit overhead on sets.  Winds were also offshore making for some hollow sections.  Note to self for future sessions - don't try and ride a 5'8" made for groveling on a day that has power otherwise you will find yourself sliding out on bottom turns and also having to air drop into to sets.  Besides the undergunage there were some really fun lefts rolling though and crowds not too bad on N peak which is where I tried to stay today.  The conditions started changing quite a bit with the south starting to show and the swampy high tide.

TP buoy information shown below with combined at 4.2ft, 226-285 degrees, 13.8 seconds

10/17	17:06:00	3.9	2.3	13.8	253	2.2	10.4	280	1.2	17.1	226	2.6 -3.2	13.8
10/17	16:06:00	4.2	2.3	13.9	249	2.4	10.4	280	1.4	17.2	216	2.6 -3.2	13.9
10/17	15:06:00	4.2	2.3	13.8	247	2.4	10.4	280	1.2	17.3	210	2.5 -3.1	13.8
10/17	14:06:00	4.4	2.6	13.8	259	2.6	10.4	285	1.3	17.2	226	2.9 -3.6	13.8
10/17	13:06:00	4.2	2.6	14.0	248	1.7	17.2	211	2.6	10.4	281	3.0 -3.7	14.0

10/15/12 - Blacks

Headed down with Russ this morning at about 6:30 and paddled out on north peak.  Waves were a lot more fun today in the waist to shoulder high range with clear water and conditions to match.  The tidal surge to almost 7ft definitely started affect the conditions.  Caught a few pretty fun ones with not many people out and stayed near ho chi men for the entire day.   TP buoy showing 2.4-3.4ft, 212-219, 18 seconds but the La Jolla surf showing more west in there as well as you can see below.  Winds were next to nothing.

10/14/12 - Blacks

Headed out this morning around 6 from the GP.  The water conditions were a bit sickly today after the recent rains with tons of sea weed and debris.  Waves were in the waist to shoulder high but were mostly closed out with a few corners here and there.  Paul joined up just as I was about to call it quits so decided to stay a while longer to see if things improved.  Tide swamped it out so it never really pulled together.  Water temperature dropped down to 64 degrees and getting cold in the morning.  It's started to feel like Fall.

10/11/12 - Blacks

Headed down today from Farms Rd shortly after 6 this morning.  The sky was looking ominous with the incoming storm but seemed to split around Blacks with thick clouds coming in north and south with a clear sky down the middle.  Some cool looking rainbows on the north side with a double forming as well.  Waves were in the waist high range and clean with the 5-10 mph SE offshore winds but the angle was just too west so most waves would just close out.  Paul joined the session and I paddled over to N peak to hang for a few before deciding to bail early.  TP buoy showing interesting readings today with primary at 3.1-3.8ft, 206-269 degrees, 17 secs, combined 2.8.  With this buoy really far out it is definitely picking up the steep south.

10/9/12 - Blacks

Met up with B for the walk down this morning for a super fun day.  First thing I noticed when pulling up to the lot was the winds were blowing nicely offshore at about 5 mph.  Waves were really fun today with mostly waist to chest high sets but breaking really nice with barrels.  For the majority of the session I stayed down on main peak since all the loc dogs chasing the waves up to north peak.  Since a good majority of the energy out of the NW there were a lot of rights and it made it look like it was always just a little bit better north of where ever you decided to sit.  Saw Danny and Russ get some really nice barrels from afar and some of the waves looked like we were in Indo.  Water and air temps nice and warm with just overall pretty epic conditions. TP buoy showing 1.7-2.1ft with a wide range of angle from 215-284 (major contributor to waves today) and combined sea height of 3.8ft.  Tide was slowly dropping from a 3.7ft high upon arrival.

10/8/12 - Blacks

Headed out solo this morning and waves were crap for the hour of the day.  I started on N peak to avoid the little pack down on main but shortly after most of the locals left though the waves started firing around 7:30.  The conditions literally changed from crap to good in what seemed to be a matter of minutes.  At that point I was catching back to back waves with hardly any break for 45 minutes or so.  Over all a fun session for at least the last half of the day.

10/7/12 - Blacks

Pulled up this Sunday morning at around 7am and by chance Chris B was in the parking lot.  Couple fun ones out there but didn't last long before the hunger from down under kicked in.  Russ was also out in the water and we called it a session after about an hour and a half.

10/6/12 - Blacks

Headed down around 7am this morning solo.   The air was a little chilly this morning but the water felt nice and warm in comparison.  Conditions were nice with clear water and little to no wind with waist to shoulder high waves.  Surfed on main  peak for a good part of the session before trying to paddle to the north peak but the current made it really difficult to get over there.  Had several decent onces but my surfing still feeling a bit off for some reason.  Stayed out for 3 hours before calling it quits.  TP buoy showing 2.4-3ft, @204 degrees, 14secs, 3.3ft combined.  There was also quite a bit of WNW swell as well that helped spread out the crowds.

10/3/13 - Blacks

Headed down solo from the GP into think fog this morning shortly after 6am.  You could barely see anything down at the beach and could not even see the waves when standing on shore.  Not much swell in the water this morning with some long period south still lingering and no more north.  If you were lucky you might get a corner here or there but also a lot of close outs with the background 230 direction.  No wind to speak of and decent shape but just too inconsistent to be much fun and still a but crowded since the waves were onlu breaking on the south-main peaks.  Got out of the water after about an hour and headed into work.   TP buoy showing primary swell from 202 @ 15secs, 2.6-3.3ft, 2.8 combined.

10/2/12 - Blacks

Surfed with B this morning and headed down from the GP.  We were out in the water when it was still dark but the moon light was bright enough to light the way.  Waves were inconstant in the mostly wait to barely chest high with really long waits between sets.  The north swell was fading away but there was still a little pulse that would occasionally hit the north peak but not much.  Stayed on south peak for the majority but it got really crowded . Didn't catch many waves and was out of the water by 8am.  Overall not that great of a session but as always a good way to start the day.

10/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for dawn patrol before work.  Waves were pulsing out of the south and were head high to a few feet overhead.  Headed out on north peak but the sets were really coming in on main peak so headed down there to join the crowds.  Had a few really run ones but the waits for those sets were pretty long.  Got my ass handed to me on a set wave when I dropped in on an over head wave, grabbed a backside rail and setup for a little cover up but the wave wobbled a bit and took the lip to the side of the head, bong!   Didn't catch that many waves but the ones that I did were pretty long rides.  The swell definitely had a hint of winter power.  TP buoy showing 3.6-4.5ft, 214-275 degrees, 14.9 secs, 3.9ft combined.