Friday, August 31, 2012

8/31/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for a what looks like a repeat of yesterday sessions with the waves in the knee to waist but a bit less consistent.  Tide was also on the rise which a large 5ft blue moon swing.  Winds were calm and water was glassy as an oil slick but unfortunately the crowd was out early this morning and was out with Russ and Paul.  Danny was providing a sick airshow for the day with tails flying high and making it look super easy....must be nice.  Stayed on north peak again for about 2 hours until it was time to head to Peets.  Buoy 100 showing 1.2-1.4ft, with a mix of direction from 202-278 degrees, 11 and 8 seconds respectively.  Combined sea height at 3ft.  Swell is on the rise so we will see what is in store for the weekend.

8/30/12 - Blacks

Headed down from GP this morning at 6ish and on the walk down the conditions looked a little better than they actually but it was nice to actually see some waves again.  Size was in the knee to waist high range on the sets and really glassy.  When Russ and I paddled out we hit the peak north of the ho chi men and head that all to ourselves for about a half an hour until the swarm decided to paddled out on top of us.  Caught a few fun ones with a few racey rights.  The swell looked to be just the left over NW wind swell with short intervals.  Tide was dead low on the rise.  Tp buoy showing just under 2ft.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

8/22/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning around 6am from the GP and waves were pretty small overall.   Russ joined up shortly after getting out and we stayed on north peak for most of the session.  Just after the few people that were out left the waves looked like they were going to get fun with a couple waist high racey sets breaking into less than knee high water.  The visibility was super clear and you could see all of the bait fish and sting rays swimming around.   Tide was swing high at around 6am so that little push could have cause the fun little 10 minutes that we had. TP buoy only showing 1.5-1.9ft, 207 degrees, 15 seconds with primary swell at 2ft.



Sunday, August 19, 2012

8/19/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with Chris and headed down from the TP GP at around 6:30. Waves were in the knee - waist range with clean, fast little make-able lines.  We stayed mainly on north peak and almost to the ho chi men trail and had our own peak for about an hour when a few more people started coming out but the crowd still stay pretty spread out with a lot of people even further north then we were.  The was a ton a bait fish swimming around as well as a larger fishing vessel just off shore reeling them in.  The water so clear that you could see the ripples on the bottom of the sand and the temperature was nice and warm.  Over all nice morning with some fun little waves.   Tide was on it's way up and TP buoy was showing 2.2 - 2.7 ft, 192 degrees, 15.4 seconds and a 3.1ft sea height.


Saturday, August 18, 2012

8/17/12 - Blacks - Part2

Cut out of work a little early and headed down solo for the round two afternoon session around 4pm.  It was a beautiful summer day and really hot so it definitely felt good to get in the water.  Paddled out around 4:30pm and the waves were actually a little bit better than they were in the morning.  Most were in the waist to chest range with the very occasional larger sets coming through about every ten minutes.  The sets were really showing from the expected south swell and were mainly hitting south to middle peak with it occasionally swinging wide to the north.  Started on the north side of middles and then ended up working my way into the crowd to get some.  The lefts were a lot better which is typical of the souths and many were makable with a few close outs. The water was super warm and ended up having to take the top part of my wetsuit off just to cool down a bit.  Tide was just on the way when I first got out and was swinging pretty good at 4-5ft. Stayed out for 3 hours total and definitely could feel it on the walk up.  I could feel my feet blistering on the front so the hike up the gliderport section was a little painful.  As soon as I got home I had to put the feet on ice since it felt like they were burning up but that is what happens when you run down that trail twice in one day with no shoes.

Friday, August 17, 2012

8/17/12 - Blacks

Friday funday.  Headed out the morning at the usual time before work and was a little skeptical about the waves based on yesterdays conditions and since the buoy looked similar but was pleasantly surprised to see that the swell was hitting.  Waves were in the waist to chest high range with clean bowly lefts rolling through. There was also a bit of NW short period wind swell in the water as well so that really help thin out the crowd which was in full effect today.  Water was super warm and hot in the short shelve full at first but then when I headed to the north peak was glad I had it since it chilled down quite a bit.  The tide was really pushing from a negative to a 5ft high at 10am.  TP buoy showing similar primary swell as yesterday at 2.4-3.0ft at 198 degrees, at 16.2 seconds intervals, sea height showing 3.1ft.  I think the biggest difference today was the 4 second NW that helped out big time since the south is at such a steep angle.


Thursday, August 16, 2012

8/16/12 - Blacks

Not much to talk about today.  Very small and very inconsistent.  Maybe had two waves total before I took off.  Swell must be missing Blacks with the 195 degree angle and 2.3-2.7 height for the primary swell so good to note for future reference.  Long periods from the Chilean swell at 17.6 seconds.  Tide was pushing in as well but that didn't seem to help much.