9/25/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded parking lot this morning at 6:15am and look like the hype swell has arrived along with everyone in the county.  Waves were decent size at head high or so but the direction was too west (good call B) from 245-258 with heights showing 3.0-3.7ft at 15 seconds, combined at 3.4ft and building.   Good to note for future sessions is that looking at Google Earth Blacks Beach is face almost exactly 270 degrees (photo attached).  Mostly close out funky double ups with some occasional makeable sections if you were lucky.  Paddled out at the hoi chi trail and stayed there for the duration of the stay.  Waves were breaking all the way down in front of Farms Rd and you could see heads all the way down.  Tide was a little swamped out at peaked at a 4.5ft at 7:20 dropping to 2ft.  Hopefully we get a bit more angle on it for tomorrow.

8/17/12 - Blacks - Part2

Cut out of work a little early and headed down solo for the round two afternoon session around 4pm.  It was a beautiful summer day and really hot so it definitely felt good to get in the water.  Paddled out around 4:30pm and the waves were actually a little bit better than they were in the morning.  Most were in the waist to chest range with the very occasional larger sets coming through about every ten minutes.  The sets were really showing from the expected south swell and were mainly hitting south to middle peak with it occasionally swinging wide to the north.  Started on the north side of middles and then ended up working my way into the crowd to get some.  The lefts were a lot better which is typical of the souths and many were makable with a few close outs. The water was super warm and ended up having to take the top part of my wetsuit off just to cool down a bit.  Tide was just on the way when I first got out and was swinging pretty good at 4-5ft. Stayed out for 3 hours total and definitely could feel it on the walk up.  I could feel my feet blistering on the front so the hike up the gliderport section was a little painful.  As soon as I got home I had to put the feet on ice since it felt like they were burning up but that is what happens when you run down that trail twice in one day with no shoes.

8/10/12 - Blacks

Day of carnage.  Paddled this morning at the regular early morning hours and walked the walk solo from the glider port.  Waves were in the waist to chest range and for a while got really fun for a good hour with the south swell starting to show.  Sets were showing the typical signs of a south with them breaking from south to middles with  most of the good rides being bowly lefts that would suck out and dump on the shallow sand bar.  Interesting day though and started with my leash breaking on the very first wave.  After failing to find the stashed one in the bushes I just paddled back out without any leash. Then after seeing Paul in the water I had a close call on the inside with a guy stuck in the foam ball coming right at me partially on his stomach trying to get up.  Then as soon as I duck dived the wave that he nearly hit me on I turned around to see the same guys with blood running all down his face. Then what happened next was slightly disturbing he then asked me if he should get out of the water so I paddled closer to have a look and then as then as I approached him blood squirted out of a large gash in his forehead so I told him that he should definitely go in and get medical attention.  Saw Russ paddling out right to the north as I was heading in.  Wind was slightly out of the south and the tide was a neap high at 3ft upon arrival.  TP buoy showing 2.1-2-6ft, 199 degrees, 16 second interval, combine sea height at 3.1.