11/22/12 - Sunset Cliffs - Subs

Surfed this Thanksgiving day at Subs today with J and B.  Headed down first solo and followed the "Don" down the trail to get to the break.  Tried out the new 6'6" which was a perfect board for the cliffs for the paddle factor alone.  Waves were head high to a few feet over head with some really fun long rides and some race track reform sections.  There was a decent sized crowd and the sets took a really long time to come in but the ones that did were a really fun.

10/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for dawn patrol before work.  Waves were pulsing out of the south and were head high to a few feet overhead.  Headed out on north peak but the sets were really coming in on main peak so headed down there to join the crowds.  Had a few really run ones but the waits for those sets were pretty long.  Got my ass handed to me on a set wave when I dropped in on an over head wave, grabbed a backside rail and setup for a little cover up but the wave wobbled a bit and took the lip to the side of the head, bong!   Didn't catch that many waves but the ones that I did were pretty long rides.  The swell definitely had a hint of winter power.  TP buoy showing 3.6-4.5ft, 214-275 degrees, 14.9 secs, 3.9ft combined.

6/10/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning at Blacks with B and paddled out around 7am.  Waves were pretty fun at head high to over head sets.  We surfed North peak for most of the day with the primary swell coming from 280 degrees at 4ft combining with some other south swell as well.  The inside section was breaking in really shallow water which B found out when he dove in head first and got the sand paper treatment to the face.   Tide was dropping out to low at around 9am and the wind was blowing out of the south.

6/7/12 - Blacks

Met up with Russ this morning for 6am dawn patrol.  The waves definitely cleanup up today and the 6 second interval swell backed off with most of it being primarily at 8 seconds.  Sets were still overhead and for mot of the sessions we had North North Peak all to ourselves.  Most of the waves were just fun drop ins but once and a while you could get one that would line up a bit.  Sun was sinning and the water was nice and warm at around 67 degrees so I wore the short sleeve full with no problem.  Winds were also a  nice S/SW at around 3mph giving it a slight offshore angle.  Tide was dead low at a negative -1ft and once it started coming up the waves shifted from N peak back down to middles.  That is when I decided to get out.  Primary swell direction was out of the N at 280 degrees at 4-5ft, 10 second intervals.