10/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning for dawn patrol before work.  Waves were pulsing out of the south and were head high to a few feet overhead.  Headed out on north peak but the sets were really coming in on main peak so headed down there to join the crowds.  Had a few really run ones but the waits for those sets were pretty long.  Got my ass handed to me on a set wave when I dropped in on an over head wave, grabbed a backside rail and setup for a little cover up but the wave wobbled a bit and took the lip to the side of the head, bong!   Didn't catch that many waves but the ones that I did were pretty long rides.  The swell definitely had a hint of winter power.  TP buoy showing 3.6-4.5ft, 214-275 degrees, 14.9 secs, 3.9ft combined.