Tuesday, June 19, 2012

6/17/12 - Blacks

Paddled out  at Blacks this fathers day at 7am with Russ.  It was really small at waist high at most but we still managed to salvage a session out of it and stayed out for about 2 hours before getting out.  Tide was dropping and there was a little surface chops but definite a few coming in.

Friday, June 15, 2012

6/15/12 - Blacks

Met up this morning with Deiter at 6am and headed down from the glider port as usual.  The south wind was kicking at around 5mph but the waves were still really fun.  Sets where actually connecting to the inside today and were in the head high range with more consistency.  With the final tide push going to 3ft at 8am there was tons of really fun waves with right and lefts coming through.  They did have a slight chop on the face but they were still really fun.  Caught a ton of waves and was pooped after an hour straight of back to back rides.  Stayed mostly on middles to north peak and stayed out to 8.  TP buoy showing 2.3-2.9, 278 degrees, at 10.2 seconds but it was definitely combining with two other westerly swells.  There were a few dolphins in the lineup surfing today and saw a couple catch a really nice set and say them cutting through and carving in the wave before it broke which is always cool.

6/14/12 - Blacks

Meet up with Russ and walked down from the glider port shortly after 6am this morning.  The primary swell with coming out of the North at almost 280 degrees so the waves were breaking really far north.  We decided to head out first just south of the glider port trail and then we gradually made our way down to north peak.  The waves were a little indecisive at first crumbling from the outside and then throwing on the inside and after about an hour the inside started working.  Some really fun rides on the inside with a quick ride and then you had to escape the close out section on the sand before you got pounced.  Tide was peaking at 3ft at around 7am.


Tuesday, June 12, 2012

6/12/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6am with Russ and did the walk from the glider port.  The size dropped considerably but with the 2ft NW and S swells combining the main peak was getting some really nice clean lefts that had little barrels that you could just stall into.  There were also the occasional right coming through but were definitely not as good as the lefts.  Overall a really fun day with a good crowd today and really clear water.  The north wind picked up a bit but the waves started getting better with the tide dropping out.  Low tide was around 10am this morning and heard it was getting even better after I left.


6/10/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning at Blacks with B and paddled out around 7am.  Waves were pretty fun at head high to over head sets.  We surfed North peak for most of the day with the primary swell coming from 280 degrees at 4ft combining with some other south swell as well.  The inside section was breaking in really shallow water which B found out when he dove in head first and got the sand paper treatment to the face.   Tide was dropping out to low at around 9am and the wind was blowing out of the south.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

6/7/12 - Blacks

Met up with Russ this morning for 6am dawn patrol.  The waves definitely cleanup up today and the 6 second interval swell backed off with most of it being primarily at 8 seconds.  Sets were still overhead and for mot of the sessions we had North North Peak all to ourselves.  Most of the waves were just fun drop ins but once and a while you could get one that would line up a bit.  Sun was sinning and the water was nice and warm at around 67 degrees so I wore the short sleeve full with no problem.  Winds were also a  nice S/SW at around 3mph giving it a slight offshore angle.  Tide was dead low at a negative -1ft and once it started coming up the waves shifted from N peak back down to middles.  That is when I decided to get out.  Primary swell direction was out of the N at 280 degrees at 4-5ft, 10 second intervals.


Wednesday, June 6, 2012

6/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning solo at around 6:30am.  Waves were surprisingly big with overhead sets rolling though but was mostly a short period energy and pretty disorganized.  I felt really tired today and didn't catch much. Got caught on the inside after about an hour and was over it so called it a day.  Could have used a bigger board today for sure.  TP buoy was showing some size at 4.1ft, from 281 degrees @ 9.3 seconds.  Winds were calm at around 3mph and slightly offshore and water temp was really nice at 66 degrees.  Tide was low at a -1.5ft 5:34am rapidly rising to almost 4ft at 12pm. Saw a large pod of dolphins all surfing he same wave.