Meet up with Russ and walked down from the glider port shortly after 6am this morning. The primary swell with coming out of the North at almost 280 degrees so the waves were breaking really far north. We decided to head out first just south of the glider port trail and then we gradually made our way down to north peak. The waves were a little indecisive at first crumbling from the outside and then throwing on the inside and after about an hour the inside started working. Some really fun rides on the inside with a quick ride and then you had to escape the close out section on the sand before you got pounced. Tide was peaking at 3ft at around 7am.
Friday, June 15, 2012
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
6/12/12 - Blacks
Paddled out this morning at 6am with Russ and did the walk from the glider port. The size dropped considerably but with the 2ft NW and S swells combining the main peak was getting some really nice clean lefts that had little barrels that you could just stall into. There were also the occasional right coming through but were definitely not as good as the lefts. Overall a really fun day with a good crowd today and really clear water. The north wind picked up a bit but the waves started getting better with the tide dropping out. Low tide was around 10am this morning and heard it was getting even better after I left.
6/10/12 - Blacks
Surfed this morning at Blacks with B and paddled out around 7am. Waves were pretty fun at head high to over head sets. We surfed North peak for most of the day with the primary swell coming from 280 degrees at 4ft combining with some other south swell as well. The inside section was breaking in really shallow water which B found out when he dove in head first and got the sand paper treatment to the face. Tide was dropping out to low at around 9am and the wind was blowing out of the south.
Thursday, June 7, 2012
6/7/12 - Blacks
Met up with Russ this morning for 6am dawn patrol. The waves definitely cleanup up today and the 6 second interval swell backed off with most of it being primarily at 8 seconds. Sets were still overhead and for mot of the sessions we had North North Peak all to ourselves. Most of the waves were just fun drop ins but once and a while you could get one that would line up a bit. Sun was sinning and the water was nice and warm at around 67 degrees so I wore the short sleeve full with no problem. Winds were also a nice S/SW at around 3mph giving it a slight offshore angle. Tide was dead low at a negative -1ft and once it started coming up the waves shifted from N peak back down to middles. That is when I decided to get out. Primary swell direction was out of the N at 280 degrees at 4-5ft, 10 second intervals.
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
6/6/12 - Blacks
Paddled out this morning solo at around 6:30am. Waves were surprisingly big with overhead sets rolling though but was mostly a short period energy and pretty disorganized. I felt really tired today and didn't catch much. Got caught on the inside after about an hour and was over it so called it a day. Could have used a bigger board today for sure. TP buoy was showing some size at 4.1ft, from 281 degrees @ 9.3 seconds. Winds were calm at around 3mph and slightly offshore and water temp was really nice at 66 degrees. Tide was low at a -1.5ft 5:34am rapidly rising to almost 4ft at 12pm. Saw a large pod of dolphins all surfing he same wave.
Monday, June 4, 2012
6/4/12 - Santa Barbara - Boathouse
Paddled out on this Sunday with Josh and Tony after the camping trip to the Los Padres National Forest and visit to Santa Barbara. We surfed at a spot called the boat house with a restaurant right on the shore and a pretty packed little parking lot. The waves were pretty small at barely waist high on the long period sets but the shape was decent with all of the rides being rights. Josh let me borrow a 5'10" Rusty quad fin fish and then ended up trading back and forth with Tony for the longboard. The spot was really nice with the exception of seeing 5 oil platforms off in the distance and all of the tar on the beach that everyone stepped in. The air smelled a bit like diesel fumes from a boat but no large ships could be seen so wonder if it was somehow coming from the oil rigs. Surfed for a couple hours and caught maybe one or two decent racey sections that would break in really shallow water so was careful not to try and break the loaner.
Sunday, May 27, 2012
5/27/12 - Blacks
Surfed this morning at 8am. Winds were showing 3-5 offshore with Tp buoy showing about 3ft at 270 degrees. The waves were ok with the bottoming out tide but started to get a little better as the water moved in. Most were waist high and slightly mushy but once and a while that random set would come though with more of a push to shoulder height. Was out at middles for a bit and then paddled over to north peak to finish up the sessions. The crowd was minimal with lots of groms in the lineup. Surfed solo today and stayed out a good three hours before calling it quits and walking back up to the glider port. At the end of the session the winds switched more westerly and then picked up a lot later in the day.
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