5/24/12 - Blacks

Met B Scripps this morning at 5:45am since the wind was 8-10 mph out of the south.  We tried to paddle there first but there was no parking due to the street sweepers so we headed to Blacks.  We paddled out closer to the Ho Chi Men trail since the current was ripping south.  I got lucky on the paddle out and made it right out though the overhead short period swell.  Had a few pretty fun drop ins and and the size was decent but there was definitely some surface texture.  The first right I dropped into I had a really nice turn off the top and came down to bottom turn and hit a pile of chop and my back foot just popped right off.  We tried to stay closer to the North Peak since as soon as you got to the inside it was really hard to get back out.  After about an hour I caught a right that took me to the inside and it was game over after that.  I tried to paddle back out and must have ducked dived like 50 waves before I gave up and walked down the beach again for round 2.  I tried to paddle back our further north again and was almost out when a larger outside set came though and washed me right back into the whirlpool section so I called it quits for the day.  With the tide starting to come up at 6:30 and the none stop waves coming in it was almost impossible to get back out.  The TP buoy was rocking at 4.4 -5.4 ft, 285 degrees, 10.3 seconds.  I am ready for a nap and a massage right now.

5/23/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Farms Rd. and paddled out this morning at around 6am.  Tide was just swinging from a -.5 creeping up to it's high point of 3ft at noon.  The southern eddies were blowing steadily at 4 mph and at times the wind was almost offshore, but the cliffs did a pretty good job of blocking most of it and the texture was still semi glassy.  On the paddle out a knee boarder came off the back of the wave and bumped into me but luckily no harm done.  For the first hour I sat between north peak and the ho chi men trail and waited for the outside larger sets to come in.  The waves were lining up pretty well and from the shore it looked the the lines were really long but they were pretty weak as well.  After getting cold and tired of waiting for the outside sets to come in I paddled back over to main peak and started catching a lot more waves towards the inside sections which was really fun with right and left bowls.  Water temp was 65 degrees and starting to see that the southern winds really help the bring up the temp when the swell is coming out the W/NW.  Not sure that holds true with south swells though.  Primary swell coming from 283 degrees, 2.4-3ft at a short 9.2 seconds.  Over all another fun day and a good start to the morning.

5/20/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this Sunday at around 7am. On the beach today I saw a decapitated seal washed up on shore.  I tried to look for bite marks but the part of the neck that would show that was tucked under the carcass so tried not to think of what could have done that and paddled out.  Tide was on the way up and the waves were pretty fun in the waist to chest range and lining up pretty good.  A decent crowd on it though since most of the swell was focus on main peak.

5/19/12 - Blacks

Drove around and checked it all the way up the coast from PB point to Blacks.  Reefs were not doing much with the high tide and decided to go with old trusty Blacks.  Paddled out at around 9am and parked solo at farms road for the walk down.  Conditions were super nice today with the sun blazing and was really hot in the 4/3.  Waves were fun with waist to chest high sets breaking on mostly the main and north peak but stayed on main peak just south of the life guard spot.  High tide was 3.5ft at 9:42am so it was dropping for most of the session.  Most of the waves were pretty mushy and not many of them lining up but there was definitely a few that had some face to it.  TP buoy was showing the primary swell hitting at 3ft from 200 degrees.  Overall a beautiful day!

5/17/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning at dawn and headed down from the gliderport solo.  Reports were calling for potential wind issues but as I walked down I could see right away that the water was nice a glassy.  The conditions were really fun with warm water at waist to chest high but was a little inconsistent with some of them being a little mushy but then others being really fun and holding up nicely.  Tide was low and rising.  Paul was out and we pretty much had the North peak to ourselves with most people sitting on main peak.  Dolphins in the water.

5/2/12 - Blacks

Made it out at 6:30am for a solo session.  Waves were still really fun in the waist to sholder high range and would do the mush on the outside to racey sections on the inside thing again with lefts and rights.  It took a while to find my rhythm since I am starting to feel the 6th day in a row of good surf on the ol' muscles. Tide was peaked high at 4ft upon arrival and as it dropped out the small local crowd that was out there took off and the waves started crackin!  Paul was out as well and we basically had main peak to ourselves for the remaining hour.  The southern eddies were blowing steadily at around 6mph but also helped the water warm up to a nice 63 degrees.  Almost time for the short sleve.  Dolphins in the water. Primary swell showing 2.6-3.2ft, 202 degrees at 14.7 seconds but still that west combo thing going on as well making for some peaky waves. 

5/1/12 - Blacks

Headed down at 6:30am this morning with B.  Waves were in the waist to chest range and were a little mushy on the outside due to the 4ft high tide, but if you could connect they got really racy and fun on the inside.  Tide was bottoming out flat at around 12pm today.  There were mostly lefts rolling though from the main peak but there also was plenty of random sets breaking a little more north, so I ended up just sitting there since it was the best section of the wave anyways.  Towards the end of the session with the tide going out the waves started breaking a bit further north and the rights started working as well.   Over another fun day and was better than predicted.  Winds were calm for almost the entire session but then it picked up at the end.  This weekend has taught me not to just go off of what the Torrey Pines bouy primary swell since the angles are very important.   Primary swell direction today was out of the south at 199 degrees but there was still 30% coming from the west as well from aroung 260 degrees.