4/11/12 - Salulita MX

Paddled out with Josh for an afternoon session. Sun a out in full force and the water was the perfect temp for just board shorts. Waves were really small again with tons of long boards and stand up paddlers but was still able to pick off a few racy right corners to the sand. Still feeling a little sick with ear nose and throat issues, a week later I am ready to be healthy again. Salulita is an amazing little town that reminds me a lot of Indonesia in many ways culture aside.

4/10/12 - Salulita MX

Posted up on beach right in the middle of a nice little crowd. Tons of people out with very small playful waves. Perfect day to take the kids out for a surf so rented a foamy and took Mikaela out for her very first session. She was able to sit up on front of the board and we caught a few waves and she just hung on the front. She was a little scared but overall she did pretty well and I was even able to pull her up to her feet on one the we rode all the way in. Fun. Marked was up next and he also caught a few but he was slight more scared and brought him back to the shore after about 3 waves. Mikaela then wanted to go back out for a few until she was over it but it was fun while it lasted. The beach was beautiful with gold flakes in the sand making it look amazing.

4/9/12 - Salulita MX

Second day in beautiful Salulita MX paddled out in front of josh's house before they arrived. The wave was a little left over a rock bottom and was barely breaking but the water was in the upper 70's and the sun was blazing so can't complain. Only two guys in water. Nice.

4/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 and came down from Farms Rd.  Waves were fun for the first hour at about head high with the winds blowing steadily offshore and hardly anyone out.  Tried to go bootyless but the water was freezing and the feet ended up turning into meatsickles within an hour.  Tide was about half way up at 2ft and the high is peaking at a 4.82 at 9:34am.  Another strange directtion on the swell with the waves breaking right in front of the road and sets even breaking further south.  TP buoy showing 2.6-3.3 ft, 264 degrees @ 11.5 second intervals.  Looks like a large percentage was also short period swell between 4-8 seconds but still fun.  As seen below it also had a lot of southerly direction so that probably explains the waves breaking better on south peak. 

4/4/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6:30 and came down solo from the Farms Rd way.  The swell definitely dropped but there were plently of playful head high sets coming though.  With the tide peaking at a 5ft high at 8am there was a bit too much water.  The sets were still breaking really far out and where mushy on the take off but if you could make it to the inside where it was a little steeper it made for a really long ride.  Had a few waves that broke all the way on the outside of south peak all the way to the inside of middles and would put the burn on the legs by the end of the wave.  Overall a really fun day with plenty of waves and hardly anyone out.  Air and water temp defintely warmer today than it has been, and even felt like it was time to shed those damn booties. Wind was nice for the first hour and then started picking up right around 8 o'clock.  TP buoy showing 4.1-5.1 ft, 258 degrees @14.7 secs.  Dolphin show "better than Seaworld" today.

4/3/12 - Blacks

Pulled a solo dawn patrol today.  Checked it first a Scripps and then parked at Farms Rd for the hike down.  Swell was fading from yesterdays beasty beasts but still plenty of surf down there.  Waves where head high to well overhead on the sets but they were also pretty shifty so it was difficult to find the right spot.  Surfed right in front of the trail today since it seemed to be breaking really south today.  TP buoy showing 5.2-6.5 ft, 253 degrees @ 13.9 secs.  Tide peaked high at almost 5ft this morning at 8am so it was a little swamped out but there was still plenty of energy in the water to make up for it.  The new board was a little small for today since I couldn't catch the larger set waves with all the water moving around.  Dolphins in water today.

3/31/12 - PB Drive

Paddled out at PB drive today with B and J around 12pm.  The waves were very deceiving because that didn't look very big but there was definite some chunky ones rolling though but pretty choppy with the steady gusting onshore winds.   I brought the new 5'11' stick today but should have known better with the buoy showing good size around 6ft.  I struggled to find my rhythm today with the waves not helping much since a lot of them were doubling up and mostly closing out, but there were a few corners to be had.     Had three or four waves throw me completely over the falls and caught me off guard.  First time I have surfed PB on a winter swell in a long time.  Dolphins in the water.