11/18/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to a crowded glider port parking lot this morning to meet Russ at around 6:30am.  There were a couple of fun ones but not that many with the waves in the waist high range but mostly mushy with a few of them lining up here and there.  Stayed on north peak for most of day.  There was a rainbow straight out for the first 15 minutes with slight showers rolling through for a bit.  Light to no wind.  TP buoy showing 2.3-2.9 ft, combined 3.3ft, 260-278 degrees.

11/11/12 - PB Drive

Surfed PB drive this morning for the first time in about a year.   Checked all the spots from Blacks down but I think the tide just started pulling back a bit by the time I got down to PB.  Paddled out solo at first and then B joined up for the sesh.  There were a couple of ok ones for the first hour but then the swell rapidly just died off.  It's definitely starting to feel like winter out there and could have easily worn booties.

10/30/12 - Blacks

Headed down this chilly morning from Farms Rd and made it out shortly after 6:30am.  Waves were decent right when I paddled out and were in the waist high range and had a really good left but not many other ones with the encroaching tide.  Decent shape and very little wind.  With the moon being close to full and the fog splitting down the middle to the moon made for a really picturesque scene.  When Paul and I were getting ready to paddle out a decent sized rock broke off of the cliff and banged to the ground.  Swell was primarily out of the west from 267 degrees showing 1.6-2ft.

10/3/13 - Blacks

Headed down solo from the GP into think fog this morning shortly after 6am.  You could barely see anything down at the beach and could not even see the waves when standing on shore.  Not much swell in the water this morning with some long period south still lingering and no more north.  If you were lucky you might get a corner here or there but also a lot of close outs with the background 230 direction.  No wind to speak of and decent shape but just too inconsistent to be much fun and still a but crowded since the waves were onlu breaking on the south-main peaks.  Got out of the water after about an hour and headed into work.   TP buoy showing primary swell from 202 @ 15secs, 2.6-3.3ft, 2.8 combined.

8/9/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning from Farms Rd. at the but crack of dawn and was still the fourth  person in the water today at 6am.  Waves were kind of sloppy when I first paddled out but it started getting a lot better as the tide settled into low at a 2.46ft at 8am.  At first the waves were breaking right on shore and would give you a pretty good pounding but then it was breaking a little more outside giving you a bit more time to prepare for a move.  Most were one move ride but they were also steep and fun.  Some little barrels if you were really lucky.  TP buoy only showing 1.7-2.1ft, 193 degrees, at 13.6 seconds, Sea height at 3.5ft.  Winds were dead calm as well.  A few guys that were camping up on the life guard spot with a huge fire going got popped by the authorities and probably got a hefty fine.  Water temp showing 62 but there were definitely warmer pockets and the air was nice and warm so it didn't feel bad at all in the short sleeve full.

8/7/12 - Blacks

Headed down from the gliderport this morning at 6:30am on this classic summer morning.   Conditions were similar to yesterday but slightly punchier with waist high clean waves which were fun up until the tide started to rise.  Winds were very calm and the surface was glassy.  Low tide was at 6:50am and the waves started getting crappy around 7:30 but there was definitely some fun ones before that happened.  Russ and I pulled the sneak attack from the north side and then headed down toward main peak for a while until more heads showed up.  TP buoy showing more energy today at 3.2-3.9ft, 189 degrees, 16.5 seconds with sea height showing 3.7ft.

8/6/12 - Blacks

Met Russ at the gliderport at 6am and headed down on this warm summer morning.  Conditions looked decent when we walking out with very little wind and finally some waves!  Sets were in the waist high + range but unfortunately the shoulders were pretty soft and the sets took a really long time to come in.  At least the water was nice and warm and it wasn't that crowed so still had fun.  For some reason I was just super tired today but still managed to get a couple waves that were decent.  Tide was rising from around 1ft this at 6:20am to 5ft at 1pm.  TP buoy showing 1.8-2.2ft range from 198 degrees at 16.5 seconds with the combined sea height at 3.2ft.  Paddled out first at north peak and finally ended up on middles.  Also worth mentioning is that yesterday when we were checking it was spotted a couple young whales straight off the cliffs jumping out of the water which was pretty cool and was the first time I've seen one in SD.

7/29/12 - Ocean Beach

Went for a long bike ride to PB which ended up in OB for a beer and burger to celebrate a classic Cali summer day.  Met up with B, and then the fam came to hang out on the beach as well.  Paddled out around 5pm with only shorts and a top (first time of the year) just north of the pier on B's loaner Channel Island board.  Sets looked like they had a lot of potential but they were pretty mushy so had to pump really hard to get the long rides to the the beach.  Femina, Julie and the kids were on shore acting as the official scoring committee with hoots and hollers after a ride all the way the the shore.  A few fun ones up there but the water started to get really cold with the diving sun and had to cut the session short to stop the shaking.

7/23/12 - Blacks

Paddled out around 6am this morning and was hoping for it to be a little bit better than it was.  Wind was on it early which put a pretty good bump on the surface.  The waves looked tini when I was walking down but as soon as a bunch of people got out and gave up on it the sets started coming it.  Unfortunately the shape was pretty poor with unpredictable corners and bumpy conditions.  There were a few out there but not a whole lot.  Was hanging with Paul later in the session when the dolphins started getting frisky, jumping out of the water, charging right at me and then going underneath.  Water was warm but the slight wind with gray cold skies made it feel a lot colder.  Tide was a 0.34ft low at 6:23am rising to a 4.78ft at 1pm.  TP buoy showing primary swell at 2.3-2.8ft, 200 degrees at 15.3 seconds.

7/2/12 - Blacks

Made it out this morning around 6:30am with Russ.  Skies were gray and gloomy out and the southern eddies were blowing.  Waves didn't look that fun from shore but the rights were working in the mostly waist high range mostly on north peak.  Water was a little chilly with the short sleeve full and the pelicans were out in full force today with one diving right next to me and other cruising in packs over head.  TP buoy showing 1.4-1-7ft from primarily 280 degrees at 7.2 seconds so mostly wind swell today.

6/27/12 - Blacks

6/17/12 - Blacks

Paddled out  at Blacks this fathers day at 7am with Russ.  It was really small at waist high at most but we still managed to salvage a session out of it and stayed out for about 2 hours before getting out.  Tide was dropping and there was a little surface chops but definite a few coming in.

6/12/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6am with Russ and did the walk from the glider port.  The size dropped considerably but with the 2ft NW and S swells combining the main peak was getting some really nice clean lefts that had little barrels that you could just stall into.  There were also the occasional right coming through but were definitely not as good as the lefts.  Overall a really fun day with a good crowd today and really clear water.  The north wind picked up a bit but the waves started getting better with the tide dropping out.  Low tide was around 10am this morning and heard it was getting even better after I left.

4/22/12 - Blacks

Met Tony at the glider port this morning at 7am for a DHD reunion session. Waves were a bit inconsistant when we first got out but there was still plenty of funs ones out there. As the tide started filling in the waves started breaking a little further north which was good because at first they were focused mainly on middle peak. A slight chop on the water with mostly waist high sets crumbling from the outside to wedging up nicely on the inside. It was breaking like high tide again on the low with the waves seeming hitting a little hole near right before breaking so it made it a little hard to judge on where to sit. We ended up paddling a little further north against the steady nearshore rip tide. TP showing 1.8-2.3 ft, 206 degrees @ 12.9 secs. Tide was a dead low at about 4:30am rising another 3ft. Stayed out for 2 1/2 hours before calling it quits.

3/11/12 - Blacks

First day of day light savings.  Paddled around 7am.  Tide was rising from it's low -.26 at 6am rising high at 12pm at 4ft at 12pm and and the waves were about waist high but were pretty fickle.  Seemed like the tide was never right and it was breaking like it was a high tide even though it wasn't.  The supposed south hasn't made it yet so just hit up the north peak.  I could see a to more people down south but it didn't look much better down there anyways.  Waves seemed like they would break well at first but would mostly mush out.  Wind was steady out of the south and the morning was chilly and gray.   A dolphin swam right under me as I duck dived a wave it was in and I could hear the loud high pitch noises really close as I put my head in the water.  Only stayed out for an hour an a half before Russ and I decided it was time for Peats.

3/8/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at the usual time and the usual place.  Was out around 6:30am and the tide was rapidly going high.  Shortly after getting out the waves quickly shifted from the outside bar to the inside in less than 30 minuntes with the tide coming up a few feet to a 5.5ft high at 8:40am.  Caught a few fun ones and some were even pretty top to bottom but closing out as well.  Stayed in front of the Ho Chi Men trail for the most part and were we joined by two other fellows, one of which knew Russ.  The water felt the coldest it has all year at a nice 55 degrees, and right when we paddled out I got an ice cream headached from the chill.  TP buoy showing only a little over a foot at 267 degrees.  Dolphins in the line up.

2/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled today around 6:45am.  Waves were pretty small with waist high sets that were breaking pretty weak. Only a few guys out and started at North Peak and ending up chasing the sets down to past the canyon where there was two guys out.  Winds were blowing steadily offshore upon arrival and it was pretty chilly out.  After about 45minutes in the water my hands got so cold that I lost control of my pinky finger and couldn't hold it together with the rest of my fingers when paddling which is a strange sensation.  A bunch of dolphins in the water today and were really relaxed just bobbing around.  Also saw a huge seal in the line up the size of a sea lion that popped up right next to me and just stared at me and dissappeared as I paddled towards it.  Stange enough the TP buoy was showing 2.2 - 2.7ft at 283 degrees at 15.7sec intervals.