12/3/12 - Blacks

Paddled out solo this morning before work and headed down from the GP.  Waves were really clean and fun in the head high range with really long long rides coming through.  They were a bit mushy but there were definitely some decent stand up sections with some of the waves trying to barrel.  Stayed in front of the Hoi Chi Men trail with only a few head out.  Hardly any wind on it either.  Tide was coming up slight from the 3ft low and TP buoy showing 3.1-3.9ft, 285 degrees, 12 seconds and combined sea height.

11/23/12 -Sunset Cliffs, Subs

Surfed the Cliffs with B and J on this gloomy day dark afternoon.  I picked them up first and we all paddled out at Subs.  Waves were decent size but they were mushy and overall pretty crappy with the incoming tide. We only stayed out for about an hour before calling it quits.

11/5/12 - Blacks

Waves were in the chest high range with some decent size but mostly close outs with the swell direction in the 270 range.  Surfed with Paul and Russ and gradually paddled up to north peak to avoid the thickening crowded on main peak.  Cut out kind of early and headed back up the glider port to grab coffee and call it a day.

6/15/12 - Blacks

Met up this morning with Deiter at 6am and headed down from the glider port as usual.  The south wind was kicking at around 5mph but the waves were still really fun.  Sets where actually connecting to the inside today and were in the head high range with more consistency.  With the final tide push going to 3ft at 8am there was tons of really fun waves with right and lefts coming through.  They did have a slight chop on the face but they were still really fun.  Caught a ton of waves and was pooped after an hour straight of back to back rides.  Stayed mostly on middles to north peak and stayed out to 8.  TP buoy showing 2.3-2.9, 278 degrees, at 10.2 seconds but it was definitely combining with two other westerly swells.  There were a few dolphins in the lineup surfing today and saw a couple catch a really nice set and say them cutting through and carving in the wave before it broke which is always cool.

6/14/12 - Blacks

Meet up with Russ and walked down from the glider port shortly after 6am this morning.  The primary swell with coming out of the North at almost 280 degrees so the waves were breaking really far north.  We decided to head out first just south of the glider port trail and then we gradually made our way down to north peak.  The waves were a little indecisive at first crumbling from the outside and then throwing on the inside and after about an hour the inside started working.  Some really fun rides on the inside with a quick ride and then you had to escape the close out section on the sand before you got pounced.  Tide was peaking at 3ft at around 7am.

4/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning around 7am with Russ.  Waves were super fun today mostly breaking head high with a few over head sets coming though as well way on the outside.  Sort of mushy on the outside but it would connect all the way to the beach making for some really long rides.  The rights were a lot better then the lefts and would act like like they were going to close out but would hold up and connect to the inside where the waves got really fast and you had to pump just to make the steep top to bottom sections.  The sandbar north of the Ho Chi Min trail was working so there was no crowd as well.  At times I actually wanted more people to be around since I was sitting in the deep water that had that eire dark color to it .  For some reason I kept thinking about sharks (maybe they were around ;), but maybe that kept me moving around a lot as well.  Timing was on today and seemed to catch set after set.  After 3 hours I was completely exhausted after paddling for what had to be at least a mile.  Primary swell showing 4.1-5ft, 192 degrees @16.8 seconds but what I think was showing more on the north peaks was the secondary and tertiary swell from the NW 218-275 degrees.  On the walk back up  could definitely see some larger sets rolling through on south peak with the occasional spitting tube .  The tide was at about 2ft dropping to a .5 when we got out.

4/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 and came down from Farms Rd.  Waves were fun for the first hour at about head high with the winds blowing steadily offshore and hardly anyone out.  Tried to go bootyless but the water was freezing and the feet ended up turning into meatsickles within an hour.  Tide was about half way up at 2ft and the high is peaking at a 4.82 at 9:34am.  Another strange directtion on the swell with the waves breaking right in front of the road and sets even breaking further south.  TP buoy showing 2.6-3.3 ft, 264 degrees @ 11.5 second intervals.  Looks like a large percentage was also short period swell between 4-8 seconds but still fun.  As seen below it also had a lot of southerly direction so that probably explains the waves breaking better on south peak. 

4/4/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6:30 and came down solo from the Farms Rd way.  The swell definitely dropped but there were plently of playful head high sets coming though.  With the tide peaking at a 5ft high at 8am there was a bit too much water.  The sets were still breaking really far out and where mushy on the take off but if you could make it to the inside where it was a little steeper it made for a really long ride.  Had a few waves that broke all the way on the outside of south peak all the way to the inside of middles and would put the burn on the legs by the end of the wave.  Overall a really fun day with plenty of waves and hardly anyone out.  Air and water temp defintely warmer today than it has been, and even felt like it was time to shed those damn booties. Wind was nice for the first hour and then started picking up right around 8 o'clock.  TP buoy showing 4.1-5.1 ft, 258 degrees @14.7 secs.  Dolphin show "better than Seaworld" today.

3/29/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning before work at 6:30am.  It had slightly drizzled this morning so it was over cast but it looks like this also pumped up the waves quite a bit.  It was head high or so but it was pretty sloppy breaking pretty far out like it was high time again even though it was low.   At least there was hardly anyone out at north peak.  Caught only a few good ones until it was time to go in.  Only a few dolphins in the water today looking like sharks.  Tide was still going low and bottoming out at 1ft at around 9:30 this morning.  TP Buoy is now showing up at 3.2-4.0 ft, 264 degrees, 13.6 secs and building!  Looks like we have some waves arriving Sunday but hope it doesn't bring weather.

2/6/12 - Blacks

Pulled up to the lot presuited today at 6:20am and was out within another10 minutes. Tide was at 5ft peaking at 8am at 6ft.  Smaller than yesterday at head high or so, but definitely more fun with tons of good lefts rolling through and barley any crowd.  Surfed solo at middle peak straight off of the lifeguard station and the left bowl was rolling in from far outside all the way in.  Racey sections with some close outs but had so many waves that I was tired even after an hour of paddling.  Ended up staying out for two hours and then hurried into work around 9am :)  TP buoy showing 3.7-4.6ft at 272 degrees.  Winds were offshore at about 7-10mph with them calming as the morning progressed, but the cliffs blocked a good portion with the water staying relatively calm.  Dolphins, pelicans and seals in the lineup this morning with the waves breaking in about 10ft or more of water.