5/27/12 - Blacks

Surfed this morning at 8am.  Winds were showing 3-5 offshore with Tp buoy showing about 3ft at 270 degrees.  The waves were ok with the bottoming out tide but started to get a little better as the water moved in.  Most were waist high and slightly mushy but once and a while that random set would come though with more of a push to shoulder height.  Was out at middles for a bit and then paddled over to north peak to finish up the sessions.  The crowd was minimal with lots of groms in the lineup.   Surfed solo today and stayed out a good three hours before calling it quits and walking back up to the glider port. At the end of the session the winds switched more westerly and then picked up a lot later in the day.

5/24/12 - Blacks

Met B Scripps this morning at 5:45am since the wind was 8-10 mph out of the south.  We tried to paddle there first but there was no parking due to the street sweepers so we headed to Blacks.  We paddled out closer to the Ho Chi Men trail since the current was ripping south.  I got lucky on the paddle out and made it right out though the overhead short period swell.  Had a few pretty fun drop ins and and the size was decent but there was definitely some surface texture.  The first right I dropped into I had a really nice turn off the top and came down to bottom turn and hit a pile of chop and my back foot just popped right off.  We tried to stay closer to the North Peak since as soon as you got to the inside it was really hard to get back out.  After about an hour I caught a right that took me to the inside and it was game over after that.  I tried to paddle back out and must have ducked dived like 50 waves before I gave up and walked down the beach again for round 2.  I tried to paddle back our further north again and was almost out when a larger outside set came though and washed me right back into the whirlpool section so I called it quits for the day.  With the tide starting to come up at 6:30 and the none stop waves coming in it was almost impossible to get back out.  The TP buoy was rocking at 4.4 -5.4 ft, 285 degrees, 10.3 seconds.  I am ready for a nap and a massage right now.

5/23/12 - Blacks

Walked down from Farms Rd. and paddled out this morning at around 6am.  Tide was just swinging from a -.5 creeping up to it's high point of 3ft at noon.  The southern eddies were blowing steadily at 4 mph and at times the wind was almost offshore, but the cliffs did a pretty good job of blocking most of it and the texture was still semi glassy.  On the paddle out a knee boarder came off the back of the wave and bumped into me but luckily no harm done.  For the first hour I sat between north peak and the ho chi men trail and waited for the outside larger sets to come in.  The waves were lining up pretty well and from the shore it looked the the lines were really long but they were pretty weak as well.  After getting cold and tired of waiting for the outside sets to come in I paddled back over to main peak and started catching a lot more waves towards the inside sections which was really fun with right and left bowls.  Water temp was 65 degrees and starting to see that the southern winds really help the bring up the temp when the swell is coming out the W/NW.  Not sure that holds true with south swells though.  Primary swell coming from 283 degrees, 2.4-3ft at a short 9.2 seconds.  Over all another fun day and a good start to the morning.