4/30/12 - Blacks

Paddled this morning with Russ and headed down at 6:30am.  When we first paddled out at the 4ft peak high tide it looked like it was gonig to be a smaller day.  But as the tide started going out ol Blackies started firing!  Main peak was the best with really long clean lefts breaking all the way to the inside and nice long intervals between sets for the paddle out.  Most waves were head high with the occassion overhead sets.  There was barely and wind at all making for really glassy waves.  The water was also super clear and it was breaking in about 15ft deep water.  I dove down the bottom and the water was so clear that you could open your eyes under water and see pretty far which looked amazing.   I was able to see seals swimming near the bottom and the dolphins were getting in on the fun as well.  TP buoy showing the primary swell at 3.8-4.7ft, 195 degrees @ 16 seconds.    But as you can see below there was still some decent energy from the west giving the waves that nice combo bump. 

4/29/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning around 7am with Russ.  Waves were super fun today mostly breaking head high with a few over head sets coming though as well way on the outside.  Sort of mushy on the outside but it would connect all the way to the beach making for some really long rides.  The rights were a lot better then the lefts and would act like like they were going to close out but would hold up and connect to the inside where the waves got really fast and you had to pump just to make the steep top to bottom sections.  The sandbar north of the Ho Chi Min trail was working so there was no crowd as well.  At times I actually wanted more people to be around since I was sitting in the deep water that had that eire dark color to it .  For some reason I kept thinking about sharks (maybe they were around ;), but maybe that kept me moving around a lot as well.  Timing was on today and seemed to catch set after set.  After 3 hours I was completely exhausted after paddling for what had to be at least a mile.  Primary swell showing 4.1-5ft, 192 degrees @16.8 seconds but what I think was showing more on the north peaks was the secondary and tertiary swell from the NW 218-275 degrees.  On the walk back up  could definitely see some larger sets rolling through on south peak with the occasional spitting tube .  The tide was at about 2ft dropping to a .5 when we got out.

4/28/12 - Blacks

Met up with Tony and Barrett this morning at 7:30am for the walk down to "Fucking Blacks" (as Tony kept calling it today due to the size and power of the surf :).  Definitely a nice beach day today.  Waves were head high with some over head sets coming through.  A lot of close outs but also a  lot of corners as well.  Plenty of waves to go around for the relative small crowd spread far north.  Main peak was wishy washy but it was good all way from north peak to the glider port trail.  The swell was mostly a short period NW so it was really consistant and made for a really good workout.  TP buoy was only showing 2.5 - 3ft this morning and built quickly when we were out there to be 3-3.7 when we got out.  Primary angle was a 272 degrees at a 11.3 second interval.  Dolphins and seals in the water today with clear conditions on the inside.  Stayed out for about 3 1/2 hours and definitely felt the burn later.  Will sleep good tonight thinking of maybe even better surf tomorrow.

4/27/12 - Blacks

Surfed a lunch session today with Tony and headed down around 11:30.  Waves were mostly waist but it was really choppy and disorganized.    A couple fun ones on north peak but not all that much to talk about.  Weather was nice at least and only a few guys so always beats working.  Tp buoy was about 1.5 ft at 270 degrees today with some steady onshore winds.  A lot of people parasailing and even someone hand gliding today so the winds must have been pretty good.    Saw dolphins in the line up on the outside right before getting out of the water.   Tide was half way up at a 1.5 on arrive going to a almost 3ft at 3pm.

4/22/12 - Blacks

Met Tony at the glider port this morning at 7am for a DHD reunion session. Waves were a bit inconsistant when we first got out but there was still plenty of funs ones out there. As the tide started filling in the waves started breaking a little further north which was good because at first they were focused mainly on middle peak. A slight chop on the water with mostly waist high sets crumbling from the outside to wedging up nicely on the inside. It was breaking like high tide again on the low with the waves seeming hitting a little hole near right before breaking so it made it a little hard to judge on where to sit. We ended up paddling a little further north against the steady nearshore rip tide. TP showing 1.8-2.3 ft, 206 degrees @ 12.9 secs. Tide was a dead low at about 4:30am rising another 3ft. Stayed out for 2 1/2 hours before calling it quits.

4/21/12 - Blacks

Back from vacation and back at it.  Chris, Wendy and I headed down around 11am today.   It was slightly foggy out but the wind stayed really calm because of it and lady blacks definitely welcome me back with some really nice wast high plus, and unusually clean conditions.  It was a pretty unusual day because not only was it clean and glassy but the waves were breaking just north of the Ho Chi Men trail and there was one other guy on the spot near us!  Plus it was pretty warm in the wetsuit with no booties and there was plenty of fun little racy sections  coming through.  The swell energy was primary from the west with the lagest percentage coming at 4-10 seconds so it was also fairly consistant.   Tide was high but it was breaking like it was low with top to bottom faces.  Overall a really fun uncrowded day especially for a mid-weekend day.

4/12/12 - Salulita MX

Still getting over this damn sickness so had to skip the partying last night with the new arrivals known as the "Serbs" so tried to go bed early but ended up not sleeping much anyways. The noises are crazy here at night with the birds, animals, dogs and random people partying to the wee hours. There seems to be no laws besides the common sense law here which is awesome, except I am sure when people without it come here. I took Josh's Miller fish out agin this morning early for a solo session. Waves were slightly bigger but still under waist high and closing out. Water was a little chilly before the sun had come all of the way out from behind the early morning clouds but still skinned it.

4/11/12 - Salulita MX

Paddled out with Josh for an afternoon session. Sun a out in full force and the water was the perfect temp for just board shorts. Waves were really small again with tons of long boards and stand up paddlers but was still able to pick off a few racy right corners to the sand. Still feeling a little sick with ear nose and throat issues, a week later I am ready to be healthy again. Salulita is an amazing little town that reminds me a lot of Indonesia in many ways culture aside.

4/10/12 - Salulita MX

Posted up on beach right in the middle of a nice little crowd. Tons of people out with very small playful waves. Perfect day to take the kids out for a surf so rented a foamy and took Mikaela out for her very first session. She was able to sit up on front of the board and we caught a few waves and she just hung on the front. She was a little scared but overall she did pretty well and I was even able to pull her up to her feet on one the we rode all the way in. Fun. Marked was up next and he also caught a few but he was slight more scared and brought him back to the shore after about 3 waves. Mikaela then wanted to go back out for a few until she was over it but it was fun while it lasted. The beach was beautiful with gold flakes in the sand making it look amazing.

4/9/12 - Salulita MX

Second day in beautiful Salulita MX paddled out in front of josh's house before they arrived. The wave was a little left over a rock bottom and was barely breaking but the water was in the upper 70's and the sun was blazing so can't complain. Only two guys in water. Nice.

4/6/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at 6:30 and came down from Farms Rd.  Waves were fun for the first hour at about head high with the winds blowing steadily offshore and hardly anyone out.  Tried to go bootyless but the water was freezing and the feet ended up turning into meatsickles within an hour.  Tide was about half way up at 2ft and the high is peaking at a 4.82 at 9:34am.  Another strange directtion on the swell with the waves breaking right in front of the road and sets even breaking further south.  TP buoy showing 2.6-3.3 ft, 264 degrees @ 11.5 second intervals.  Looks like a large percentage was also short period swell between 4-8 seconds but still fun.  As seen below it also had a lot of southerly direction so that probably explains the waves breaking better on south peak. 

4/4/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning at 6:30 and came down solo from the Farms Rd way.  The swell definitely dropped but there were plently of playful head high sets coming though.  With the tide peaking at a 5ft high at 8am there was a bit too much water.  The sets were still breaking really far out and where mushy on the take off but if you could make it to the inside where it was a little steeper it made for a really long ride.  Had a few waves that broke all the way on the outside of south peak all the way to the inside of middles and would put the burn on the legs by the end of the wave.  Overall a really fun day with plenty of waves and hardly anyone out.  Air and water temp defintely warmer today than it has been, and even felt like it was time to shed those damn booties. Wind was nice for the first hour and then started picking up right around 8 o'clock.  TP buoy showing 4.1-5.1 ft, 258 degrees @14.7 secs.  Dolphin show "better than Seaworld" today.

4/3/12 - Blacks

Pulled a solo dawn patrol today.  Checked it first a Scripps and then parked at Farms Rd for the hike down.  Swell was fading from yesterdays beasty beasts but still plenty of surf down there.  Waves where head high to well overhead on the sets but they were also pretty shifty so it was difficult to find the right spot.  Surfed right in front of the trail today since it seemed to be breaking really south today.  TP buoy showing 5.2-6.5 ft, 253 degrees @ 13.9 secs.  Tide peaked high at almost 5ft this morning at 8am so it was a little swamped out but there was still plenty of energy in the water to make up for it.  The new board was a little small for today since I couldn't catch the larger set waves with all the water moving around.  Dolphins in water today.

3/31/12 - PB Drive

Paddled out at PB drive today with B and J around 12pm.  The waves were very deceiving because that didn't look very big but there was definite some chunky ones rolling though but pretty choppy with the steady gusting onshore winds.   I brought the new 5'11' stick today but should have known better with the buoy showing good size around 6ft.  I struggled to find my rhythm today with the waves not helping much since a lot of them were doubling up and mostly closing out, but there were a few corners to be had.     Had three or four waves throw me completely over the falls and caught me off guard.  First time I have surfed PB on a winter swell in a long time.  Dolphins in the water.