Thursday, March 29, 2012

3/29/12 - Blacks

Headed down this morning before work at 6:30am.  It had slightly drizzled this morning so it was over cast but it looks like this also pumped up the waves quite a bit.  It was head high or so but it was pretty sloppy breaking pretty far out like it was high time again even though it was low.   At least there was hardly anyone out at north peak.  Caught only a few good ones until it was time to go in.  Only a few dolphins in the water today looking like sharks.  Tide was still going low and bottoming out at 1ft at around 9:30 this morning.  TP Buoy is now showing up at 3.2-4.0 ft, 264 degrees, 13.6 secs and building!  Looks like we have some waves arriving Sunday but hope it doesn't bring weather.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

3/28/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this morning with B at 6:30am.  Tide was bottoming out at 8am this morning and TP buoy showing 1.5ft, 13.7sec at 210 degrees.  Caught a few fun ones but not a whole lot to talk about today.  Crowd was focused on middles today since that was the only place waves were but overall it was pretty mellow since only a few of the locals were out. 

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

3/27/12 - Blacks

Paddled at the usual 6:30am time today and met up with Russ for the walk down.  Tide was low at .75ft this morning at 7am and the waves were breaking like it was high tide even though it was low.  Waves would crumble from the outside and then there would be racey inside sections.  Second day on the new board and was able to pop it out of the water on a left bowl on the inside.  Loving it so far.  The wildlife was going crazy today as well with huge ass dolphins swiming everywhere and jumping out the water four at a time.  One even popped up right between Russ and I as we were talking and scared the shit out of us.  The fishing must have been good with dolphins blowing bubbles everywhere and pelicans and other sea birds all over the place.  Surfed the outside just south of Middles for the majority of the session and was able to connect on several all the way to the inside for some long rides and then near the end I sat on the inside for the last 15 minutes for tons of short little rides.    TP buoy showing 2.1-2.6 ft, 210 degrees @ 13.7 secs.  Overall a fun day with the new board defintely adding to the fun factor.  Here is a picture of the master and his work.  Thanks Michael Miller Surfboards!

Friday, March 16, 2012

3/16/12 - Blacks

Went out again at lunchtime today and had a blast.  Waves were super fun with some really nice ramps coming through.  Today was the type of day that you could paddle only a couple of times and  you knew you had it.  Surfed south south peak with hardly anyone on it and no competition.  Had tons of fun clean waves in the waist to chest high range that were breaking left and right.  Had an usually high air attempt today since the waves were really skatepark style.  Need to start working on trying more airs for sure.  Pretty short session but definitely met the quota for the day :)

3/15/12 - Blacks

Paddled out for a lunch session today and was out in the water by 11:30am.  Waves were in the head high+ range with some really fun drop in's.  A lot of close outs but definitely some makable ones.  The south swell was showing with the long wrapping lefts breaking on south peak in through middles.    Water is still super cold and was glad to be out in the afternoon as opposed to the morning.  Tide bottomed out about half way through the sesssion and when it started to swing a set came through that washed everyone to the inside and I got stuck on the inside for at least 20 minutes.  What a workout, had the noodle arms after that paddle!  Overall a really fun session.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

3/14/12 - Blacks

Headed down from the glider port around 6:30 this morning.  Waves were slightly bigger, choppier, and more crowded than yesterday, but still a lot of fun.  Winds were blowing steadily onshore and skies were gray and chilly.  Surfed on middle peak for most of the session.  Tide was about 2.5 feet dropping another 1.5ft while I was out.  The water was super cold again and I am not going to lie, every day like today make me want to live in a more tropical place so I don't feel like a freakin popsicle.  There was a large amount of dolphins out with lots of little babies out swimming with the mothers.  They were super cute little guys jumping completly out of the water within a stones throw.  TP buoy showing 2.6-3.3ft at 251 degrees.


Tuesday, March 13, 2012

3/13/12 - Blacks

Defintely some fun ones out there today!  Paddled out around 6:45 this morning on north peak.  Waves were in the waist to chest range with some phantom barrells coming through.   Left and rights with fun take off and some nice sections.  Tide was settling into a flat 0 at 8am.  Tp buoy showing 2.8-3.5 from with a slight south 254 degrees.  Winds were a steady onshore at 5mph.  Dolpins in the linup as usual.



Sunday, March 11, 2012

3/11/12 - Blacks

First day of day light savings.  Paddled around 7am.  Tide was rising from it's low -.26 at 6am rising high at 12pm at 4ft at 12pm and and the waves were about waist high but were pretty fickle.  Seemed like the tide was never right and it was breaking like it was a high tide even though it wasn't.  The supposed south hasn't made it yet so just hit up the north peak.  I could see a to more people down south but it didn't look much better down there anyways.  Waves seemed like they would break well at first but would mostly mush out.  Wind was steady out of the south and the morning was chilly and gray.   A dolphin swam right under me as I duck dived a wave it was in and I could hear the loud high pitch noises really close as I put my head in the water.  Only stayed out for an hour an a half before Russ and I decided it was time for Peats.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

3/8/12 - Blacks

Paddled out at the usual time and the usual place.  Was out around 6:30am and the tide was rapidly going high.  Shortly after getting out the waves quickly shifted from the outside bar to the inside in less than 30 minuntes with the tide coming up a few feet to a 5.5ft high at 8:40am.  Caught a few fun ones and some were even pretty top to bottom but closing out as well.  Stayed in front of the Ho Chi Men trail for the most part and were we joined by two other fellows, one of which knew Russ.  The water felt the coldest it has all year at a nice 55 degrees, and right when we paddled out I got an ice cream headached from the chill.  TP buoy showing only a little over a foot at 267 degrees.  Dolphins in the line up.

3/4/12 - Blacks

Paddled out this Sunday early morning with Russ and not much to talk about.  Waves were about knee to barley waist but breaking really weak due to the really high tide.  Surfed just south of the trail head before the sand mound since it didn't look like anything down at the main breaks at all.  Only saw two other heads out way down south so you know when there are only four people surfing blacks the waves are poop.  After about 45 minutes we decided Peets and a little breakfast at Whole Food was needed.

Friday, March 2, 2012

3/2/12 - Blacks

Paddled out today around 6:30am.  Waves were in the chest to head high range but the tide was a at a full high at little over 4 feet quickly dropping to 2 ft by the time I was out of the water at 8am.   It was defintely a wind swell from last night gusty winds producing the typical short intevals beteen sets. It was hard to paddle out today with the white water rapids going on the inside and a decent current pulling south.  The session started off kind of fun with a few nice drop ins but then the tide seemed to mess it up pretty good and didn't catch much for the last half hour or so.     Russ saw a seal try and snap a pelican flying low to the surface of the water but it was a swing and a miss.  TP buoy showing primary swell at 2.4 - 3.1ft at 283 degrees, 13 sec intervals.  Not sure I understand the stormsurf buoy interval of 13 seconds since the LaJollaSurf one shows the primary sweel interal at 6-8secs which I think it definitely the case for today.